Eu Te Amo PORTUGAL!! – Part II 

(PORTO, AVEIRO, COIMBRA, LAGOS & EVORA)

 

After our adventures in Sintra, we embarked on a drive holiday to explore more of Portugal with our dear friends. Our first destination was the vibrant city of Porto, with a charming detour through Aveiro along the way. 

Aveiro, affectionately known as the ‘Venice of Portugal’ for its picturesque moliceiros (gondola-style boats), greeted us with its undeniable charm. Serendipitously, our visit coincided with the feast of Santa Joanna, daughter of King Afonso V of Portugal, allowing us to witness the city adorned in celebration and religious processions. While the journey from Lisbon was smooth, navigating the narrow streets of Porto proved to be a daunting task, especially as some were inaccessible to vehicles, unbeknownst to Google Maps!

The following days spent in this captivating medieval city were an absolute delight. Our hotel nestled near the picturesque Ribeira, provided the perfect starting point for our exploration of the enchanting riverfront on our very first evening. The subsequent day, we embarked on a captivating free walking tour of the city, immersing ourselves in its rich tapestry of history and culture. A highlight was our visit to the breathtaking São Bento train station, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and National Monument of Portugal. 

Adorned with approximately twenty thousand azulejo tiles, each panel narrates poignant moments from the nation's storied past, while vibrant multicoloured scenes capture the essence of rural life across various regions. Our exploration continued with a visit to the impressive Sé Cathedral, followed by a delightful lunch at the renowned Bolhão market. Here, the bustling lower level offered a cornucopia of tantalizing food and unique souvenirs, while charming restaurants beckoned from the upper level. 

No visit to Porto would be complete without admiring the awe-inspiring beauty of the Igreja de São Francisco and the majestic Palácio da Bolsa, a historic edifice that once housed the city's stock exchange. These architectural marvels are must-see attractions that epitomize Porto's timeless allure. While in the city, treat yourself to a meal at Jimão Tapas e Vinhos but be sure to secure a reservation in advance to savour the culinary delights that await. 

Our day trip to the Douro Valley proved to be an unforgettable highlight of our Porto escapade, offering breathtaking landscapes that exceeded all expectations. While numerous wineries beckoned with the promise of wine-tasting experiences, we opted for a unique wine picnic amidst the picturesque vineyards of Pinhão, specifically at 

Quinta da Roeda. 

There, we were treated to a lavish picnic basket, complete with a bottle of exquisite wine, allowing us to indulge in a leisurely feast while basking in the serene beauty of the surroundings. It comes highly recommended for an unforgettable experience. Following our delightful picnic, we embarked on a scenic hour-long boat ride along the tranquil river. Amidst the peaceful waters, we were pleasantly surprised to overhear snippets of Marathi, courtesy of a tour group from Veena World, adding an unexpected touch of familiarity to our journey. As our day drew to a close, we made a pit stop in the Matosinhos area near Porto, renowned for its exceptional seafood restaurants. Here, at Dom Peixe, we savoured a delectable dinner made from the day's freshest catch, sourced directly from the nearby port. It was a culinary delight that perfectly concluded our day of exploration and indulgence.

 

No trip to Porto would be complete without venturing across the river to the charming city of Vila Nova de Gaia, particularly on a tranquil evening. Here, amidst the storied warehouses housing the city’s famed port wine and the iconic rabelo boats gently bobbing in the river—a reminder of their historic role in transporting the wine - you’ll discover a world of sensory delights. Embark on a wine-tasting journey at one of the esteemed wineries, such as Taylor’s Port, where the rich flavours of their 10-year-old tawny port tantalize the palate. Then make your way to the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar monastery to catch the sunset. It offers panoramic views of Porto and the river that promise to leave you in awe. Afterwards, indulge in the culinary treasures of the Mercado Beira-Rio de Vila Nova de Gaia, an indoor food market brimming with delectable delights.

After bidding farewell to Porto, we embarked on our journey towards Lagos in the stunning Algarve region, albeit a lengthy one. Along the way, we paused in Coimbra to marvel at the renowned Joanina Library - an architectural masterpiece. A word to the wise: be sure to reserve a time slot in advance to avoid waiting for the next available opening, as visitor numbers are carefully regulated. Arriving in Lagos, we checked in to our charming apartment and ventured to a cozy restaurant bar next door, where a friendly Welsh waitress welcomed us. It was the perfect spot to unwind, marking the beginning of our memorable stay in Lagos.

 

The pinnacle of our Lagos experience, and perhaps the entire trip, was the unforgettable boat excursion from Ponte da Piedade to explore the mesmerizing grottoes with Grotto Pioneers (https://www.facebook.com/grottopioneers). The sheer beauty and grandeur of the natural formations took our breath away, once again exceeding our expectations with their sublime beauty. 

This is an absolute must-do when visiting the region - a truly unparalleled experience. Another highly recommended adventure is the boat trip to the renowned Benagil caves, which we embarked on with Carvoeiro Tours. This exhilarating journey aboard a speedboat added an extra dose of excitement to our exploration. 

While in the area, a visit to the dramatic cliffs and pristine beaches of the Sagres Peninsula, along with witnessing the sunset at Cape St. Vincent, comes highly recommended. While some may find the sunset underwhelming, the exhilarating experience of the windy conditions adds an adventurous flair to the spectacle.

In Lagos, our most cherished culinary delight awaited us at Tasca do Kiko, a hidden gem endorsed by my foodie brother, Robin. 😊 While a bit tricky to locate, the effort was richly rewarded. Be sure to book ahead to secure your spot. Saturdays in Lagos, meanwhile, bring the vibrant energy of the farmer’s market at Mercado do Levante, a delightful experience brimming with an abundance of fresh produce. Don't miss the tantalizing stall offering olives and stuffed peppers, the luscious fresh berries, the artisanal bread, and the savoury bifana stall outside - each offering a taste of local delights.

 

Our journey culminated in the enchanting city of Évora, nestled in the picturesque Alentejo region. With its impeccably preserved urban center dating back to the 16th to 18th centuries, Évora has rightfully earned its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Strolling through its winding streets, flanked by charming white houses, is a journey through time. Amidst our explorations, we stumbled upon a delightful gelato spot—Fabrica dos Gelados - that only added to the city’s allure. 😉 The gelato was truly divine, prompting us to indulge in it for dinner on our final evening in Évora.

On another day, we embarked on a scenic drive to explore neighbouring towns in the Alentejo region, including Monsaraz, Vila Viçosa, and Estremoz. Each destination unveiled a treasure trove of beautiful churches, majestic castles, and breathtaking vistas, with Monsaraz capturing our hearts as the standout favourite.

As our incredible vacation came to a close, we couldn't help but feel a tinge of sadness knowing that our time in this beautiful country had reached its end. Departing with heavy hearts, we harboured hopes of returning one day to indulge in even more of the country's rich offerings.