Eu Te Amo PORTUGAL!! – Part I (LISBOA & SINTRA)

Attending my godchild Lianne’s wedding in Sintra, Portugal, was a delightful opportunity to fulfil a long-standing desire to explore the country. Portugal exceeded our every expectation, captivating us with its beauty and charm, and igniting within us a desire for further exploration.

Fearing the risk of our bags and wedding attire not arriving on time, we opted to explore Lisbon before the wedding and save the rest of the country for afterward. Thanks to my niece Shefali’s impeccable recommendation, we were fortunate enough to stay at the Almalusa Alfama, a gem of an accommodation that set the perfect tone for our Portuguese sojourn. We arrived on a Saturday, perfectly timed to explore the enchanting Feira da Ladra, Lisbon’s oldest and most storied flea market, held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The market was a treasure trove of curiosities and delightful souvenirs, making for an engaging and rewarding excursion. 

Following a delightful lunch amidst the market’s lively atmosphere, we ventured to the nearby National Pantheon, drawn by the promise of its breathtaking terrace views. This majestic structure, originally the Church of Saint Engratia built in 1682, was later transformed into the National Pantheon in 1916. Its magnificent dome, completed in 1966, holds the record as the longest construction project in Portugal’s history. An intriguing tidbit: the Portuguese expression “a job like St. Engratia” humorously refers to any task that seems to take an eternity to complete 😊

While in Lisbon, a visit to the Time Out Market is a must for its vibrant atmosphere and diverse culinary offerings. Our dinner there was a delightful introduction to the pescatarian delights that would characterize much of our trip. For a perfect Sunday outing, the LX Factory

is ideal, bustling with boutique clothes, crafts, and jewellery markets. However, what truly captivated us were the pop-up food stalls showcasing local favourites - like sardines and cheese - from all over the country. The highlight of our weekend, though, was the enchanting excursion to Cascais, Cabo da Roca - the westernmost point of continental Europe - and Azenhas do Mar, often called the Santorini of Portugal. We enjoyed a charming meal at Bom Dia, all thanks to the generosity of our friend Angelo. A visit to these towns is something every traveller should not miss.

Walking tours are an excellent way to immerse yourself in a city’s charm, and our tour of Lisbon with Ines Ribeiro from Time Travellers (http://www.timetravellers.pt/en/contact-us/) was exceptional. It took us through Baixa, Alfama, and Chiado, culminating at the breathtaking Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara near Bairro Alto - our first of many stunning viewpoints. This was the perfect place to conclude our tour, as it was a short stroll to Tasca do Manel, a restaurant highly recommended by my foodie brother, Robin, which did not disappoint. 😊

 

When in Portugal, experiencing fado is a must. This traditional Portuguese singing style, deeply expressive and melancholic, is usually associated with pubs and cafés. We chose to visit O Faia, but found it overpriced and the food quite mediocre. A better option would be to explore the many intimate restaurants in Alfama, where you can enjoy authentic fado music alongside the locals.

 

The next morning, we set out to explore the trio of iconic monuments in Belém. The architecture of the Jerónimos Monastery was stunning, though we opted not to pay for the cloisters to avoid the long, sun-drenched queue. Instead, we visited the church and marvelled at Vasco da Gama’s tomb. 

From there, we strolled across the lush gardens of the Praça do Império to the imposing Monument to the Discoveries on the waterfront.

This striking monument, celebrating the explorers of the Age of Discovery, also offers a fantastic viewing terrace to admire the sights of Belém. Following the boulevard along the water’s edge, we reached the iconic Belém Tower. We chose to enjoy its best views from the water on a delightful half-hour Tagus River cruise, which departs conveniently from nearby. Lunch at a quaint spot called Typical Portuguese Grill was a highlight, where we savoured the best grilled sardines of our trip.

After a refreshing rest at the hotel, we ventured out in the evening to explore the Sé Cathedral and the nearby Church of Saint Anthony of Lisbon (also known as Saint Anthony of Padua), traditionally believed to be built on the site of the saint’s birth in 1195. A visit to São Jorge Castle at sunset provided the perfect ending to a wonderfully enriching day.

 

Having explored the highlights of Lisbon, we decided to spend our final day on a day trip outside the city. Our first stop was the Convent of Christ in Tomar. The town of Tomar grew within the walls of this convent, constructed in the late 12th century under the orders of Gualdim de Pais, the fourth Grand Master of the Knights Templar in Portugal. This remarkable site, showcasing architecture and art from the 12th to the 16th centuries, is one of the most significant monuments in Portugal. Next, we visited Alcobaça, renowned for the Monastery of Santa Maria, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded by the Order of Cistercians in 1153 on land donated by Dom Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal. 

The Cistercians revolutionized agriculture in the region by introducing innovative techniques and products, establishing Alcobaça as one of Portugal’s main fruit producers to this day. 

Our final destination was the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fátima, a Marian shrine commemorating the 1917 Marian Apparitions. This serene and beautiful site is a must-visit, offering a profound sense of peace and reverence. 

With Lisbon behind us, the enchanting allure of Sintra awaited.  While I had envisioned a flurry of sightseeing adventures, our schedule filled quickly with wedding festivities, allowing only enough time to explore the magnificent Moorish Castle. This iconic fortress offers awe-inspiring panoramic vistas, making it an essential stop for any traveller. 

However, no visit to Sintra would be complete without experiencing the grandeur of the Pena Palace, the mystical allure of Quinta da Regaleira, and the historical charm of the National Palace of Sintra. These architectural marvels beckon visitors, ensuring unforgettable memories for all who wander through their storied halls.