Eu Te Amo PORTUGAL!! – Part II 

(PORTO, AVEIRO, COIMBRA, LAGOS & EVORA)

 

After our adventures in Sintra, we embarked on a drive holiday to explore more of Portugal with our dear friends. Our first destination was the vibrant city of Porto, with a charming detour through Aveiro along the way. 

Aveiro, affectionately known as the ‘Venice of Portugal’ for its picturesque moliceiros (gondola-style boats), greeted us with its undeniable charm. Serendipitously, our visit coincided with the feast of Santa Joanna, daughter of King Afonso V of Portugal, allowing us to witness the city adorned in celebration and religious processions. While the journey from Lisbon was smooth, navigating the narrow streets of Porto proved to be a daunting task, especially as some were inaccessible to vehicles, unbeknownst to Google Maps!

The following days spent in this captivating medieval city were an absolute delight. Our hotel nestled near the picturesque Ribeira, provided the perfect starting point for our exploration of the enchanting riverfront on our very first evening. The subsequent day, we embarked on a captivating free walking tour of the city, immersing ourselves in its rich tapestry of history and culture. A highlight was our visit to the breathtaking São Bento train station, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and National Monument of Portugal. 

Adorned with approximately twenty thousand azulejo tiles, each panel narrates poignant moments from the nation's storied past, while vibrant multicoloured scenes capture the essence of rural life across various regions. Our exploration continued with a visit to the impressive Sé Cathedral, followed by a delightful lunch at the renowned Bolhão market. Here, the bustling lower level offered a cornucopia of tantalizing food and unique souvenirs, while charming restaurants beckoned from the upper level. 

No visit to Porto would be complete without admiring the awe-inspiring beauty of the Igreja de São Francisco and the majestic Palácio da Bolsa, a historic edifice that once housed the city's stock exchange. These architectural marvels are must-see attractions that epitomize Porto's timeless allure. While in the city, treat yourself to a meal at Jimão Tapas e Vinhos but be sure to secure a reservation in advance to savour the culinary delights that await. 

Our day trip to the Douro Valley proved to be an unforgettable highlight of our Porto escapade, offering breathtaking landscapes that exceeded all expectations. While numerous wineries beckoned with the promise of wine-tasting experiences, we opted for a unique wine picnic amidst the picturesque vineyards of Pinhão, specifically at 

Quinta da Roeda. 

There, we were treated to a lavish picnic basket, complete with a bottle of exquisite wine, allowing us to indulge in a leisurely feast while basking in the serene beauty of the surroundings. It comes highly recommended for an unforgettable experience. Following our delightful picnic, we embarked on a scenic hour-long boat ride along the tranquil river. Amidst the peaceful waters, we were pleasantly surprised to overhear snippets of Marathi, courtesy of a tour group from Veena World, adding an unexpected touch of familiarity to our journey. As our day drew to a close, we made a pit stop in the Matosinhos area near Porto, renowned for its exceptional seafood restaurants. Here, at Dom Peixe, we savoured a delectable dinner made from the day's freshest catch, sourced directly from the nearby port. It was a culinary delight that perfectly concluded our day of exploration and indulgence.

 

No trip to Porto would be complete without venturing across the river to the charming city of Vila Nova de Gaia, particularly on a tranquil evening. Here, amidst the storied warehouses housing the city’s famed port wine and the iconic rabelo boats gently bobbing in the river—a reminder of their historic role in transporting the wine - you’ll discover a world of sensory delights. Embark on a wine-tasting journey at one of the esteemed wineries, such as Taylor’s Port, where the rich flavours of their 10-year-old tawny port tantalize the palate. Then make your way to the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar monastery to catch the sunset. It offers panoramic views of Porto and the river that promise to leave you in awe. Afterwards, indulge in the culinary treasures of the Mercado Beira-Rio de Vila Nova de Gaia, an indoor food market brimming with delectable delights.

After bidding farewell to Porto, we embarked on our journey towards Lagos in the stunning Algarve region, albeit a lengthy one. Along the way, we paused in Coimbra to marvel at the renowned Joanina Library - an architectural masterpiece. A word to the wise: be sure to reserve a time slot in advance to avoid waiting for the next available opening, as visitor numbers are carefully regulated. Arriving in Lagos, we checked in to our charming apartment and ventured to a cozy restaurant bar next door, where a friendly Welsh waitress welcomed us. It was the perfect spot to unwind, marking the beginning of our memorable stay in Lagos.

 

The pinnacle of our Lagos experience, and perhaps the entire trip, was the unforgettable boat excursion from Ponte da Piedade to explore the mesmerizing grottoes with Grotto Pioneers (https://www.facebook.com/grottopioneers). The sheer beauty and grandeur of the natural formations took our breath away, once again exceeding our expectations with their sublime beauty. 

This is an absolute must-do when visiting the region - a truly unparalleled experience. Another highly recommended adventure is the boat trip to the renowned Benagil caves, which we embarked on with Carvoeiro Tours. This exhilarating journey aboard a speedboat added an extra dose of excitement to our exploration. 

While in the area, a visit to the dramatic cliffs and pristine beaches of the Sagres Peninsula, along with witnessing the sunset at Cape St. Vincent, comes highly recommended. While some may find the sunset underwhelming, the exhilarating experience of the windy conditions adds an adventurous flair to the spectacle.

In Lagos, our most cherished culinary delight awaited us at Tasca do Kiko, a hidden gem endorsed by my foodie brother, Robin. 😊 While a bit tricky to locate, the effort was richly rewarded. Be sure to book ahead to secure your spot. Saturdays in Lagos, meanwhile, bring the vibrant energy of the farmer’s market at Mercado do Levante, a delightful experience brimming with an abundance of fresh produce. Don't miss the tantalizing stall offering olives and stuffed peppers, the luscious fresh berries, the artisanal bread, and the savoury bifana stall outside - each offering a taste of local delights.

 

Our journey culminated in the enchanting city of Évora, nestled in the picturesque Alentejo region. With its impeccably preserved urban center dating back to the 16th to 18th centuries, Évora has rightfully earned its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Strolling through its winding streets, flanked by charming white houses, is a journey through time. Amidst our explorations, we stumbled upon a delightful gelato spot—Fabrica dos Gelados - that only added to the city’s allure. 😉 The gelato was truly divine, prompting us to indulge in it for dinner on our final evening in Évora.

On another day, we embarked on a scenic drive to explore neighbouring towns in the Alentejo region, including Monsaraz, Vila Viçosa, and Estremoz. Each destination unveiled a treasure trove of beautiful churches, majestic castles, and breathtaking vistas, with Monsaraz capturing our hearts as the standout favourite.

As our incredible vacation came to a close, we couldn't help but feel a tinge of sadness knowing that our time in this beautiful country had reached its end. Departing with heavy hearts, we harboured hopes of returning one day to indulge in even more of the country's rich offerings.

Eu Te Amo PORTUGAL!! – Part I (LISBOA & SINTRA)

Attending my godchild Lianne’s wedding in Sintra, Portugal, was a delightful opportunity to fulfil a long-standing desire to explore the country. Portugal exceeded our every expectation, captivating us with its beauty and charm, and igniting within us a desire for further exploration.

Fearing the risk of our bags and wedding attire not arriving on time, we opted to explore Lisbon before the wedding and save the rest of the country for afterward. Thanks to my niece Shefali’s impeccable recommendation, we were fortunate enough to stay at the Almalusa Alfama, a gem of an accommodation that set the perfect tone for our Portuguese sojourn. We arrived on a Saturday, perfectly timed to explore the enchanting Feira da Ladra, Lisbon’s oldest and most storied flea market, held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The market was a treasure trove of curiosities and delightful souvenirs, making for an engaging and rewarding excursion. 

Following a delightful lunch amidst the market’s lively atmosphere, we ventured to the nearby National Pantheon, drawn by the promise of its breathtaking terrace views. This majestic structure, originally the Church of Saint Engratia built in 1682, was later transformed into the National Pantheon in 1916. Its magnificent dome, completed in 1966, holds the record as the longest construction project in Portugal’s history. An intriguing tidbit: the Portuguese expression “a job like St. Engratia” humorously refers to any task that seems to take an eternity to complete 😊

While in Lisbon, a visit to the Time Out Market is a must for its vibrant atmosphere and diverse culinary offerings. Our dinner there was a delightful introduction to the pescatarian delights that would characterize much of our trip. For a perfect Sunday outing, the LX Factory

is ideal, bustling with boutique clothes, crafts, and jewellery markets. However, what truly captivated us were the pop-up food stalls showcasing local favourites - like sardines and cheese - from all over the country. The highlight of our weekend, though, was the enchanting excursion to Cascais, Cabo da Roca - the westernmost point of continental Europe - and Azenhas do Mar, often called the Santorini of Portugal. We enjoyed a charming meal at Bom Dia, all thanks to the generosity of our friend Angelo. A visit to these towns is something every traveller should not miss.

Walking tours are an excellent way to immerse yourself in a city’s charm, and our tour of Lisbon with Ines Ribeiro from Time Travellers (http://www.timetravellers.pt/en/contact-us/) was exceptional. It took us through Baixa, Alfama, and Chiado, culminating at the breathtaking Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara near Bairro Alto - our first of many stunning viewpoints. This was the perfect place to conclude our tour, as it was a short stroll to Tasca do Manel, a restaurant highly recommended by my foodie brother, Robin, which did not disappoint. 😊

 

When in Portugal, experiencing fado is a must. This traditional Portuguese singing style, deeply expressive and melancholic, is usually associated with pubs and cafés. We chose to visit O Faia, but found it overpriced and the food quite mediocre. A better option would be to explore the many intimate restaurants in Alfama, where you can enjoy authentic fado music alongside the locals.

 

The next morning, we set out to explore the trio of iconic monuments in Belém. The architecture of the Jerónimos Monastery was stunning, though we opted not to pay for the cloisters to avoid the long, sun-drenched queue. Instead, we visited the church and marvelled at Vasco da Gama’s tomb. 

From there, we strolled across the lush gardens of the Praça do Império to the imposing Monument to the Discoveries on the waterfront.

This striking monument, celebrating the explorers of the Age of Discovery, also offers a fantastic viewing terrace to admire the sights of Belém. Following the boulevard along the water’s edge, we reached the iconic Belém Tower. We chose to enjoy its best views from the water on a delightful half-hour Tagus River cruise, which departs conveniently from nearby. Lunch at a quaint spot called Typical Portuguese Grill was a highlight, where we savoured the best grilled sardines of our trip.

After a refreshing rest at the hotel, we ventured out in the evening to explore the Sé Cathedral and the nearby Church of Saint Anthony of Lisbon (also known as Saint Anthony of Padua), traditionally believed to be built on the site of the saint’s birth in 1195. A visit to São Jorge Castle at sunset provided the perfect ending to a wonderfully enriching day.

 

Having explored the highlights of Lisbon, we decided to spend our final day on a day trip outside the city. Our first stop was the Convent of Christ in Tomar. The town of Tomar grew within the walls of this convent, constructed in the late 12th century under the orders of Gualdim de Pais, the fourth Grand Master of the Knights Templar in Portugal. This remarkable site, showcasing architecture and art from the 12th to the 16th centuries, is one of the most significant monuments in Portugal. Next, we visited Alcobaça, renowned for the Monastery of Santa Maria, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded by the Order of Cistercians in 1153 on land donated by Dom Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal. 

The Cistercians revolutionized agriculture in the region by introducing innovative techniques and products, establishing Alcobaça as one of Portugal’s main fruit producers to this day. 

Our final destination was the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fátima, a Marian shrine commemorating the 1917 Marian Apparitions. This serene and beautiful site is a must-visit, offering a profound sense of peace and reverence. 

With Lisbon behind us, the enchanting allure of Sintra awaited.  While I had envisioned a flurry of sightseeing adventures, our schedule filled quickly with wedding festivities, allowing only enough time to explore the magnificent Moorish Castle. This iconic fortress offers awe-inspiring panoramic vistas, making it an essential stop for any traveller. 

However, no visit to Sintra would be complete without experiencing the grandeur of the Pena Palace, the mystical allure of Quinta da Regaleira, and the historical charm of the National Palace of Sintra. These architectural marvels beckon visitors, ensuring unforgettable memories for all who wander through their storied halls.