CROATIA and SLOVENIA Unravelled

Croatia and Slovenia have long topped our travel wish list—and my husband’s 60th birthday was the perfect excuse to finally explore them. And let me tell you—they more than lived up to the hype! The culinary scene, which you know is essential for every Mantri family holiday, exceeded expectations. But I’ll get to that soon...

We kicked off (and later wrapped up) our journey in Zagreb, Croatia’s capital. We rented a car from Nova Rent a Car, a highly recommended local company, with excellent service throughout.

Our first stop was Zadar, the second‑largest city on the Dalmatian coast—and reputedly home to one of the world’s most spectacular sunsets. Windswept and ancient, Zadar has been continuously inhabited since the 4th century. We stayed in a wonderfully located apartment—just steps from the seafront promenade. Here, the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun monuments, both by Nikola Bašić, draw large crowds at dusk. The Sea Organ turns waves into sound through marble steps and submerged pipes, while the Greeting to the Sun is a 22‑meter solar‑powered glass circle that lights up at night, creating a poetic dialogue between light, water and sky. Since time was short, we kicked off with a free walking tour (something we try everywhere in Europe). It’s the fastest way to get our bearings, hear local legends, see major highlights and soak up the atmosphere. In Zadar, our route took us through the old town’s narrow stone alleys, past the Roman Forum and the Church of St. Donatus and onto the waterfront for the Sea Organ and Greeting to the Sun.

The food was just as memorable. Our most traditional Croatian meal was at Bistro Pjat, where we tried pasticada—a rich braised beef dish in a fragrant sweet‑and‑sour sauce popular in Croatia. While interesting, we subsequently steered more toward Mediterranean seafood and simpler fare. Little indulgences deserve a mention: creamy, unforgettable ice‑creams from Bob Rocks; and the most heavenly pistachio croissants I’ve ever had at Coffee and Cake, Kavana Centar.

Our next lodging stop was Split, but on the way we made a stop at Šibenik — and what a gem that turned out to be. 

Dominating the skyline is the Cathedral of St. James, hailed as the most significant architectural achievement of the 15th‑ and 16th‑century Croatia. It’s built entirely of stone, using some fascinating structural techniques, and earned its UNESCO World Heritage status in 2000. We lingered in Šibenik long enough for a lovely meal at Ay Amo.

Once in Split, we checked into an apartment in the perfect spot — close enough to feel part of the buzz but tucked away enough to relax. That evening, we found a local bar to catch what turned out to be a thrilling Arsenal-Newcastle match, then made our way to Ćiri Biri Bela for dinner. The restaurant is charming: a romantic courtyard set in a traditional Dalmatian stone house, with a local‑seasonal menu that blends tradition with a touch of modern flair. Food, ambience, service all delivered.

The next morning, our walking tour led us into the heart of Split’s history. One of the loveliest moments was hearing a brief klapa —that warm, resonant sound of a cappella group singing — performance at the Vestibule of Diocletian’s Palace. If you time it right (especially in summer), you might catch one of the regular longer performances. Also on the must‑do list is the Green Market. There’s something magical about wandering among the stalls, breathing in the mix of aromas and buying fresh figs, local olive oil and knickknacks.

The drive down the Dalmatian coast from Split to Dubrovnik was long—but absolutely worth it thanks to two wonderful stops: Makarska and Ston. Makarska, nestled beside the sea, charmed us with its natural beauty. After a scrumptious lunch at Gastro Diva, we climbed up to the statue of St. Peter, perched on St. Peter’s Peninsula, for sweeping views of the city, islands, and rugged mountain backdrop.

Then it was onward to Ston, a highlight of our Croatian journey. After scaling the Ancient Walls of Ston, which stretch more than 5km linking Ston and Mali Ston, and sampling sea salt from the nearby salt pans for which the region is famous, we found our way to Restaurant Ficovic in Hodilje (just outside Ston). There, in a beautiful setting, with attentive service, we indulged in oysters and fresh seafood so sublime that I can honestly say it was the best meal of the entire trip!

Anand was itching to explore Dubrovnik—after all, it’s where 7 seasons of Game of Thrones were filmed. Of course, he couldn’t resist grabbing some memorabilia and snapping photos at the official store. But there was so much more to the city than that. 

After a free walking tour of the Old Town, over the next couple of days we walked the city walls (with views of the Adriatic and the red rooftops), explored the fortress while soaking up its commanding presence over the sea, visited one of the oldest working pharmacies in Europe (1317) inside the Franciscan Monastery, and paid our respects at St. Blaise Church and visited the Cathedral, both beautiful and steeped in history. 

One of the must‑do food stops is Holy Burek. The line was long but the burek absolutely delivered.

And so, after Anand departed, my husband and I pressed on to one of the most magical parts of our journey: Plitvice Lakes National Park. Without a doubt, this was the highlight of the whole trip. The photos barely capture the sheer, breathtaking beauty of cascading waterfalls, crystal‑clear streams, and those views that make you stop and admire. We lucked out with a gorgeous, sunny day, and the early touch of fall colours made everything even more special.

If you're planning a visit, here are a few tips:

• Buy your tickets in advance. The park limits visitor numbers per hour, so securing a slot ahead of time avoids disappointment.
• Arrive early in the morning. We got there well before most tour groups, which let us explore in relative peace. It’s also cooler and less crowded in those first few hours.
• Route H is highly recommended. It includes beautiful sections of both upper and lower lakes, and benefits from peaceful stretches along the way, offering the best balance of scenery, boat ride, walking and views.
  

We stayed at B&B Millenium House, which was perfectly located just a stone’s throw from Entrance 2. The owner was wonderful—warm, helpful, and gave us excellent advice on the best path (Route H) and where to eat. One recommendation he made, Restoran Gurman, turned out to be just what we needed after a long day of walking.

From Plitvice, we took a side trip to the charming village of Rastoke, only about 30‑km away. Often called the “mini Plitvice” (or “Little Plitvice”), it has its own charm: wooden watermills, small waterfalls, and rivers (the Slunjčica and the Korana) weaving through a picturesque settlement built in harmony with the water.

Finally, it was onward to Slovenia. If driving, make sure you buy an e-vignette (permit to enter Slovenia) online beforehand to cover the length of your stay before driving into Slovenia to avoid being fined.

Piran beckoned next, after a gorgeous lunch stop in Motovun in the Istria region—famous for both its white and black truffles. We dined at Konoba Mondo, and it was absolutely superb: the

ravioli came topped with generous shavings of white truffle. Motovun also turned out to be the perfect place to pick up a bottle of truffle oil to bring home. Plus, the views from the hilltop town surprised on the upside. All in all, a worthwhile detour if your schedule allows. Piran, was our home for the night. It’s a charming coastal town, with pastel‑coloured buildings, narrow winding alleys and the sea right outside your door—very reminiscent of the Tuscan towns we’ve grown to adore.

Our drive to Lake Bled was enriched by two remarkable stops that showcased Slovenia's natural and historical wonders. At the recommendation of friends, we ventured to the Škocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its exceptional limestone formations and underground river canyons. This vast system encompasses over 6km of passages, including the immense Martel Chamber, one of the largest known underground chambers globally. The Reka River carves through the cave, creating dramatic waterfalls and rapids, while collapsed dolines add to the site's geological significance. As UNESCO notes, Škocjan Caves are a testament to the grandeur of karst topography and a haven for endemic species, making it a must-visit for nature enthusiasts and geology aficionados alike.

Continuing our exploration, we arrived at Predjama Castle, a Renaissance fortress built into the mouth of a cave halfway up a 123m-high cliff. Dating back over 800 years, the castle's strategic location made it nearly impregnable. Legend has it that the knight Erazem of Predjama used a network of secret tunnels to evade capture during a prolonged siege,. Today, visitors can tour the castle and its cave system, delving into its storied past and enjoying panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

We continued our journey to Lake Bled, Slovenia’s flagship lake, nestled serenely in the Julian Alps of the Upper Carniolan region. Often hailed as the most beautiful place in Europe, its emerald waters, quaint island church and medieval castle perched atop a cliff create a scene straight out of a fairytale. The town exuded a Swiss charm, with our hotel reminiscent of the cozy chalets found in towns like Zermatt. 

A leisurely walk around the lake's perimeter, a traditional pletna boat ride to the island, and a visit to the nearby Vintgar Gorge - just 10 minutes away - were all highlights of our stay. Dining at the Old Cellar Bled added to the town’s allure, offering a delightful culinary experience.

A short drive led us to Lake Bohinj, Slovenia’s largest lake, which offers a more tranquil and less touristy experience. A visit to the Savica Waterfall, located within Triglav National Park, was a highlight. This unique waterfall, with its distinctive A-shape, cascades from a height of 78 meters and is formed by an underground watercourse splitting into two streams.

Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital, beckoned next. In 2016, it was honoured with the European Green Capital Award, recognizing its exceptional environmental initiatives and commitment to sustainability. The city boasts an impressive 542 sq.m. of green space per capita, the highest in Europe. At the heart of Ljubljana lies the Ljubljana Castle, a 16th-century fortress offering panoramic views of the city. According to Greek legend, the Argonauts, led by Jason, encountered a fearsome dragon in a marshy lake near the city. After slaying the beast, the dragon became a symbol of power and courage, now prominently featured on the castle tower, the city’s coat of arms, and the iconic Dragon Bridge. Wandering through Ljubljana's pedestrian-friendly Old Town, we were captivated by its baroque architecture, cobblestone streets, and the gentle flow of the Ljubljanica River. Cafés lining the riverbanks offered the perfect spots to relax and soak in the vibrant atmosphere. A boat ride on the only wooden boat on the river was lovely and offered views of the city from a different perspective.

Our Balkan adventure concluded back where it began—Zagreb. Once more, we embarked on a free walking tour. Zagreb's blend of Austro-Hungarian architecture, lively squares, and quaint cafés offered a perfect backdrop for our final days in Croatia. Meals at Restoran Uspinaja were a highlight. This charming eatery serves traditional Croatian dishes with a modern twist, providing a culinary experience that encapsulated the flavours of the region.

During our walking tour in Zagreb, my husband encountered the Croatian concept of fjaka—a relaxed state of mind and body, often described as the 'sweetness of doing nothing'. It's a cherished aspect of Dalmatian culture, emphasizing complete relaxation and presence in the moment. Some even believe that embracing fjaka can rejuvenate the spirit and promote well-being. As we prepared to leave, I mused about my husband's newfound appreciation for fjaka. If he fully embraces this laid-back philosophy, I might find myself sightseeing solo in the future! 😊

Kia Ora NEW ZEALAND

Aotearoa, the Māori name for New Zealand, has long been on our bucket list, and this December, the Mantri family was fortunate enough to immerse ourselves in its breathtaking beauty. This adventure truly ranks among our best holidays ever, and I would happily return! 😊

Our journey began with a flight into Queenstown, where we rented a car and set off for Te Anau, the gateway to Milford Sound. While many travellers choose a day trip from Queenstown, we realized that spending a couple of nights in Te Anau was the better option. The Croft B&B, nestled on a working sheep farm, provided stunning views of the lake and mountains—an ideal introduction to a country where sheep outnumber humans five to one!

We decided to go with a small local tour operator for our trip to Milford Sound, and it turned out to be a fantastic choice. The journey included stops for short treks and a tea break where we got delicious scones. We were lucky enough to spot a kea, the iconic alpine parrot, by the roadside. Interestingly, that kea was the only one we saw during our entire trip! Once we arrived at Milford Sound, we boarded a cruise with RealNZ, and it did not disappoint. Everywhere we turned, we were surrounded by stunning scenery and breathtaking waterfalls, making it a truly unforgettable experience.

Next, we made our way to Queenstown, our favourite town of the trip. Known as New Zealand's adventure capital, it offers an exciting array of activities on land, water, and in the air. The boys ticked skydiving off their bucket list in what was an exhilarating experience with NZone. Anand also went jetboating through the Shotover canyons with Shotover Jet on the recommendation of one of his close friends. We also highly recommend taking a cruise on the TSS Earnslaw across the beautiful Lake Wakatipu to Walter Peak High Country Farm where we indulged in a gourmet barbecue and enjoyed a farm show. The TSS Earnslaw is a historic twin screw steamer and one of the oldest tourist attractions in Central Otago. It's also the only remaining coal-fired passenger steamship in the Southern Hemisphere, making the experience even more special!

Our accommodation was conveniently located just a short walk from town, making it easy to explore. We had the perfect introduction to New Zealand’s culinary delights, enjoying a fabulous tapas-style meal at Soda and indulging in the incredible ice creams, chocolates and desserts from Patagonia. While Fergburger comes highly recommended, we found it undeserving of the hype and wouldn’t suggest queuing for it as there are far better options in town. To top it off, the Queenstown Gardens provided a lovely backdrop for a morning walk.

Queenstown also serves as the perfect gateway to explore Arrowtown, a charming historic gold mining town nestled in the picturesque Otago region. Established in 1862, Arrowtown is enveloped by majestic mountains and set in a serene river valley, making it a good mix of natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant culture. Strolling through the town, we wandered through many boutique shops and visited the Lakes District Museum housed within three historic buildings on Buckingham Street. The museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the Queenstown Lakes District's history, which stretches across 8,719 km² from Makarora to Kingston. With its extensive collection of artefacts, engaging displays, compelling local stories and fun quests for kids, you’ll find yourself absorbed for at least an hour.

No trip to Central Otago is complete without exploring its renowned wine region. We spent an afternoon wine-tasting at some of the area’s most famous wineries, including the Gibbston Valley Winery, Kinross, and our personal favourite, Amisfield. Each stop offered a unique taste of the region’s exquisite vintages. On your way back to Queenstown, consider stopping at one of the many breweries in Frankton, such as Altitude Brewing, for a refreshing craft beer. With so much to explore, Arrowtown and Central Otago beautifully complement the allure of Queenstown.

Our next stop was Lake Tekapo, renowned for its stunning stargazing opportunities. The drive from Queenstown through the breathtaking Crown Range, passing through Cardrona and Wanaka, was truly a highlight of the journey. We highly recommend a stop at the historic Cardrona Hotel, where we indulged in one of the best sandwiches of our trip. Meanwhile, at the Cardrona Distillery, we enjoyed a complimentary tasting of their exquisite vodka, gin and whiskey, and even picked up a bottle of their unique single malt vodka. As we continued to Wanaka, often dubbed a quieter version of Queenstown, we found it to be an ideal spot for a quick lunch. However, we did find the famed Wanaka Tree a bit overrated; while picturesque, it didn't quite live up to the hype. Nevertheless, the overall charm of the area made for a lovely pit stop on our way to Lake Tekapo.

At Lake Tekapo, we were treated to breathtaking views of this stunning lake. Here, we enjoyed the best meal of our trip at TLV – short for Tekapo Lake View. We decided to spend two nights in Lake Tekapo to maximize our chances of stargazing, which is highly weather-dependent. This turned out to be a brilliant choice as although both tours on our first day were cancelled, we were lucky enough to embark on a stargazing adventure the following night, just past midnight. Despite some cloud cover, we caught glimpses of Jupiter and its four moons, as well as three mesmerizing nebulae. It was an unforgettable experience to cozy up under the chilly night sky, wrapped in warm blankets with hot chocolate and roasted marshmallows by a crackling fire. We went with a small company called Chameleon Stargazing, and we couldn’t have been happier with our choice.

However, we couldn’t help but wonder if the weather at Mount Cook (Aoraki) might have been more favourable for stargazing. If you’re planning your trip, consider making Mount Cook your base for a night before heading to Lake Tekapo. This not only saves you from backtracking but also allows you to immerse yourself in the stunning beauty of Mount Cook National Park. One of the highlights of our trip was the Hooker Valley Track, an easy but scenic 10 km return journey that we highly recommend. The trail features three suspension bridges that span rushing rivers, offering gorgeous views of snow-capped mountains, glaciers and pristine lakes. Since there are no food options along the way, we opted to pack a light lunch and some snacks from the supermarket, enjoying a picnic by the serene Hooker Lake (the halfway/ U-turn point) before our return. While you’re in Lake Tekapo, don’t miss the drive up to the Mount John Observatory. The panoramic views of the town and its stunning surroundings are simply spectacular and make for the perfect way to cap off your day.

Next, we set off toward the Marlborough wine region, using Blenheim as our base. But first, we couldn’t resist stopping in Kaikoura to experience its renowned NZ fur seals and indulge in some fresh crayfish and seafood—local specialties that the seaside town is famous for. I must admit, though, that the much-hyped meal at the ‘world-famous’ Kaikoura Seafood BBQ left us feeling a bit underwhelmed. While it’s worth trying the crayfish while you’re in town, don’t expect it to live up to the hype. Fortunately, our short walks to the seal colonies at both Kaikoura and Ohau Point more than made up for the dining disappointment. We were lucky enough to spot loads of adorable seal pups in their natural habitat - truly a sight to behold.

Blenheim served as the perfect base for exploring the exquisite Marlborough wine region, where vineyards stretched as far as the eye could see. It is the largest wine region we've visited, and we couldn’t wait to continue our anniversary celebrations at my husband’s favourite vineyard, Cloudy Bay. The accompanying Marlborough oysters and scallops were divine! Among the wineries we explored, Cloudy Bay stood out as the most picturesque and classy. We also discovered some gems, like Astrolabe Small Town Winery—an authentic find recommended by a local—along with Wither Hills, Allan Scott, and Jackson Estate. Wine and food lovers will be in heaven here, as the region showcases the superior quality of its culinary offerings, perfectly paired with world-class wines.

A highlight of our trip was the wildlife cruise and mini trek at Motuara Island with E-ko Tours, departing a short 25-minute drive away from Blenheim, in a small town called Picton. We were incredibly fortunate to spot around 15 different species of wildlife, but the stars of the show were the Queen Charlotte Sound Hector dolphins and a small colony of King Shags (cormorants)—both endangered species. In fact, we saw 10% of the global population of Hector dolphins and 4% of King Shags! Needless to say, I was a happy camper! 😊

After indulging in the culinary delights of Marlborough, it was time to drive to our final destination in the South Island: Christchurch. We opted for a longer, scenic route through Arthur’s Pass National Park. Unfortunately, the rainy weather didn’t cooperate for a trek to the Devil’s Punchbowl. However, the Mantri family always finds hidden treasures along the way, and our stop at the Otira Stagecoach Hotel was a nice surprise. This historic hotel, built during the gold mining boom, is recognized as a museum. The elderly couple who run it are lovely, and their cafe was one of the few open along the long drive on Christmas Day, allowing us to grab a bite. The delicious coffee and toasties, combined with my amusing attempt to play the unusual piano with just my legs, made it a memorable stop.

We stayed at the Novotel Christchurch Cathedral Square, which was the perfect location to explore the city's highlights in just a day. A stroll to the gorgeous Botanic Gardens is a must, showcasing a stunning array of flora and fauna. Adjacent to the gardens, Hagley Park is equally lovely and perfect for a leisurely walk. The highlight of our time in Christchurch was the gondola ride to the top, where we were treated to breathtaking views of the city. It was also a great opportunity to do some souvenir shopping at the gift shop up there. All in all, it was a wonderful way to wrap up our South Island adventure!

Finally, we hopped on a short flight north to Auckland, where we met with friends and family. They ensured we made the most of our visit, with some of the highlights including a scenic drive to Muriwai, home to an impressive gannet colony,  a leisurely stroll through the lush Kauri Glen Reserve, and a  trek up Mount Eden for some sweeping panoramic views of the city. And of course, no visit would be complete without indulging in a couple of dinners with loved ones. We felt thoroughly spoiled by everyone, which made for a perfect ending to our inaugural trip to New Zealand. Our journey was filled with beautiful landscapes, incredible experiences, and cherished moments with friends and family. It’s a trip we will always treasure!

Kia ora Aotearoa. Kia tutaki ano tatou (Till we meet again in Maori-language 😊).

 Eu Te Amo PORTUGAL!! – Part II 

(PORTO, AVEIRO, COIMBRA, LAGOS & EVORA)

 

After our adventures in Sintra, we embarked on a drive holiday to explore more of Portugal with our dear friends. Our first destination was the vibrant city of Porto, with a charming detour through Aveiro along the way. 

Aveiro, affectionately known as the ‘Venice of Portugal’ for its picturesque moliceiros (gondola-style boats), greeted us with its undeniable charm. Serendipitously, our visit coincided with the feast of Santa Joanna, daughter of King Afonso V of Portugal, allowing us to witness the city adorned in celebration and religious processions. While the journey from Lisbon was smooth, navigating the narrow streets of Porto proved to be a daunting task, especially as some were inaccessible to vehicles, unbeknownst to Google Maps!

The following days spent in this captivating medieval city were an absolute delight. Our hotel nestled near the picturesque Ribeira, provided the perfect starting point for our exploration of the enchanting riverfront on our very first evening. The subsequent day, we embarked on a captivating free walking tour of the city, immersing ourselves in its rich tapestry of history and culture. A highlight was our visit to the breathtaking São Bento train station, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and National Monument of Portugal. 

Adorned with approximately twenty thousand azulejo tiles, each panel narrates poignant moments from the nation's storied past, while vibrant multicoloured scenes capture the essence of rural life across various regions. Our exploration continued with a visit to the impressive Sé Cathedral, followed by a delightful lunch at the renowned Bolhão market. Here, the bustling lower level offered a cornucopia of tantalizing food and unique souvenirs, while charming restaurants beckoned from the upper level. 

No visit to Porto would be complete without admiring the awe-inspiring beauty of the Igreja de São Francisco and the majestic Palácio da Bolsa, a historic edifice that once housed the city's stock exchange. These architectural marvels are must-see attractions that epitomize Porto's timeless allure. While in the city, treat yourself to a meal at Jimão Tapas e Vinhos but be sure to secure a reservation in advance to savour the culinary delights that await. 

Our day trip to the Douro Valley proved to be an unforgettable highlight of our Porto escapade, offering breathtaking landscapes that exceeded all expectations. While numerous wineries beckoned with the promise of wine-tasting experiences, we opted for a unique wine picnic amidst the picturesque vineyards of Pinhão, specifically at 

Quinta da Roeda. 

There, we were treated to a lavish picnic basket, complete with a bottle of exquisite wine, allowing us to indulge in a leisurely feast while basking in the serene beauty of the surroundings. It comes highly recommended for an unforgettable experience. Following our delightful picnic, we embarked on a scenic hour-long boat ride along the tranquil river. Amidst the peaceful waters, we were pleasantly surprised to overhear snippets of Marathi, courtesy of a tour group from Veena World, adding an unexpected touch of familiarity to our journey. As our day drew to a close, we made a pit stop in the Matosinhos area near Porto, renowned for its exceptional seafood restaurants. Here, at Dom Peixe, we savoured a delectable dinner made from the day's freshest catch, sourced directly from the nearby port. It was a culinary delight that perfectly concluded our day of exploration and indulgence.

 

No trip to Porto would be complete without venturing across the river to the charming city of Vila Nova de Gaia, particularly on a tranquil evening. Here, amidst the storied warehouses housing the city’s famed port wine and the iconic rabelo boats gently bobbing in the river—a reminder of their historic role in transporting the wine - you’ll discover a world of sensory delights. Embark on a wine-tasting journey at one of the esteemed wineries, such as Taylor’s Port, where the rich flavours of their 10-year-old tawny port tantalize the palate. Then make your way to the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar monastery to catch the sunset. It offers panoramic views of Porto and the river that promise to leave you in awe. Afterwards, indulge in the culinary treasures of the Mercado Beira-Rio de Vila Nova de Gaia, an indoor food market brimming with delectable delights.

After bidding farewell to Porto, we embarked on our journey towards Lagos in the stunning Algarve region, albeit a lengthy one. Along the way, we paused in Coimbra to marvel at the renowned Joanina Library - an architectural masterpiece. A word to the wise: be sure to reserve a time slot in advance to avoid waiting for the next available opening, as visitor numbers are carefully regulated. Arriving in Lagos, we checked in to our charming apartment and ventured to a cozy restaurant bar next door, where a friendly Welsh waitress welcomed us. It was the perfect spot to unwind, marking the beginning of our memorable stay in Lagos.

 

The pinnacle of our Lagos experience, and perhaps the entire trip, was the unforgettable boat excursion from Ponte da Piedade to explore the mesmerizing grottoes with Grotto Pioneers (https://www.facebook.com/grottopioneers). The sheer beauty and grandeur of the natural formations took our breath away, once again exceeding our expectations with their sublime beauty. 

This is an absolute must-do when visiting the region - a truly unparalleled experience. Another highly recommended adventure is the boat trip to the renowned Benagil caves, which we embarked on with Carvoeiro Tours. This exhilarating journey aboard a speedboat added an extra dose of excitement to our exploration. 

While in the area, a visit to the dramatic cliffs and pristine beaches of the Sagres Peninsula, along with witnessing the sunset at Cape St. Vincent, comes highly recommended. While some may find the sunset underwhelming, the exhilarating experience of the windy conditions adds an adventurous flair to the spectacle.

In Lagos, our most cherished culinary delight awaited us at Tasca do Kiko, a hidden gem endorsed by my foodie brother, Robin. 😊 While a bit tricky to locate, the effort was richly rewarded. Be sure to book ahead to secure your spot. Saturdays in Lagos, meanwhile, bring the vibrant energy of the farmer’s market at Mercado do Levante, a delightful experience brimming with an abundance of fresh produce. Don't miss the tantalizing stall offering olives and stuffed peppers, the luscious fresh berries, the artisanal bread, and the savoury bifana stall outside - each offering a taste of local delights.

 

Our journey culminated in the enchanting city of Évora, nestled in the picturesque Alentejo region. With its impeccably preserved urban center dating back to the 16th to 18th centuries, Évora has rightfully earned its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Strolling through its winding streets, flanked by charming white houses, is a journey through time. Amidst our explorations, we stumbled upon a delightful gelato spot—Fabrica dos Gelados - that only added to the city’s allure. 😉 The gelato was truly divine, prompting us to indulge in it for dinner on our final evening in Évora.

On another day, we embarked on a scenic drive to explore neighbouring towns in the Alentejo region, including Monsaraz, Vila Viçosa, and Estremoz. Each destination unveiled a treasure trove of beautiful churches, majestic castles, and breathtaking vistas, with Monsaraz capturing our hearts as the standout favourite.

As our incredible vacation came to a close, we couldn't help but feel a tinge of sadness knowing that our time in this beautiful country had reached its end. Departing with heavy hearts, we harboured hopes of returning one day to indulge in even more of the country's rich offerings.

Eu Te Amo PORTUGAL!! – Part I (LISBOA & SINTRA)

Attending my godchild Lianne’s wedding in Sintra, Portugal, was a delightful opportunity to fulfil a long-standing desire to explore the country. Portugal exceeded our every expectation, captivating us with its beauty and charm, and igniting within us a desire for further exploration.

Fearing the risk of our bags and wedding attire not arriving on time, we opted to explore Lisbon before the wedding and save the rest of the country for afterward. Thanks to my niece Shefali’s impeccable recommendation, we were fortunate enough to stay at the Almalusa Alfama, a gem of an accommodation that set the perfect tone for our Portuguese sojourn. We arrived on a Saturday, perfectly timed to explore the enchanting Feira da Ladra, Lisbon’s oldest and most storied flea market, held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The market was a treasure trove of curiosities and delightful souvenirs, making for an engaging and rewarding excursion. 

Following a delightful lunch amidst the market’s lively atmosphere, we ventured to the nearby National Pantheon, drawn by the promise of its breathtaking terrace views. This majestic structure, originally the Church of Saint Engratia built in 1682, was later transformed into the National Pantheon in 1916. Its magnificent dome, completed in 1966, holds the record as the longest construction project in Portugal’s history. An intriguing tidbit: the Portuguese expression “a job like St. Engratia” humorously refers to any task that seems to take an eternity to complete 😊

While in Lisbon, a visit to the Time Out Market is a must for its vibrant atmosphere and diverse culinary offerings. Our dinner there was a delightful introduction to the pescatarian delights that would characterize much of our trip. For a perfect Sunday outing, the LX Factory

is ideal, bustling with boutique clothes, crafts, and jewellery markets. However, what truly captivated us were the pop-up food stalls showcasing local favourites - like sardines and cheese - from all over the country. The highlight of our weekend, though, was the enchanting excursion to Cascais, Cabo da Roca - the westernmost point of continental Europe - and Azenhas do Mar, often called the Santorini of Portugal. We enjoyed a charming meal at Bom Dia, all thanks to the generosity of our friend Angelo. A visit to these towns is something every traveller should not miss.

Walking tours are an excellent way to immerse yourself in a city’s charm, and our tour of Lisbon with Ines Ribeiro from Time Travellers (http://www.timetravellers.pt/en/contact-us/) was exceptional. It took us through Baixa, Alfama, and Chiado, culminating at the breathtaking Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara near Bairro Alto - our first of many stunning viewpoints. This was the perfect place to conclude our tour, as it was a short stroll to Tasca do Manel, a restaurant highly recommended by my foodie brother, Robin, which did not disappoint. 😊

 

When in Portugal, experiencing fado is a must. This traditional Portuguese singing style, deeply expressive and melancholic, is usually associated with pubs and cafés. We chose to visit O Faia, but found it overpriced and the food quite mediocre. A better option would be to explore the many intimate restaurants in Alfama, where you can enjoy authentic fado music alongside the locals.

 

The next morning, we set out to explore the trio of iconic monuments in Belém. The architecture of the Jerónimos Monastery was stunning, though we opted not to pay for the cloisters to avoid the long, sun-drenched queue. Instead, we visited the church and marvelled at Vasco da Gama’s tomb. 

From there, we strolled across the lush gardens of the Praça do Império to the imposing Monument to the Discoveries on the waterfront.

This striking monument, celebrating the explorers of the Age of Discovery, also offers a fantastic viewing terrace to admire the sights of Belém. Following the boulevard along the water’s edge, we reached the iconic Belém Tower. We chose to enjoy its best views from the water on a delightful half-hour Tagus River cruise, which departs conveniently from nearby. Lunch at a quaint spot called Typical Portuguese Grill was a highlight, where we savoured the best grilled sardines of our trip.

After a refreshing rest at the hotel, we ventured out in the evening to explore the Sé Cathedral and the nearby Church of Saint Anthony of Lisbon (also known as Saint Anthony of Padua), traditionally believed to be built on the site of the saint’s birth in 1195. A visit to São Jorge Castle at sunset provided the perfect ending to a wonderfully enriching day.

 

Having explored the highlights of Lisbon, we decided to spend our final day on a day trip outside the city. Our first stop was the Convent of Christ in Tomar. The town of Tomar grew within the walls of this convent, constructed in the late 12th century under the orders of Gualdim de Pais, the fourth Grand Master of the Knights Templar in Portugal. This remarkable site, showcasing architecture and art from the 12th to the 16th centuries, is one of the most significant monuments in Portugal. Next, we visited Alcobaça, renowned for the Monastery of Santa Maria, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded by the Order of Cistercians in 1153 on land donated by Dom Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal. 

The Cistercians revolutionized agriculture in the region by introducing innovative techniques and products, establishing Alcobaça as one of Portugal’s main fruit producers to this day. 

Our final destination was the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fátima, a Marian shrine commemorating the 1917 Marian Apparitions. This serene and beautiful site is a must-visit, offering a profound sense of peace and reverence. 

With Lisbon behind us, the enchanting allure of Sintra awaited.  While I had envisioned a flurry of sightseeing adventures, our schedule filled quickly with wedding festivities, allowing only enough time to explore the magnificent Moorish Castle. This iconic fortress offers awe-inspiring panoramic vistas, making it an essential stop for any traveller. 

However, no visit to Sintra would be complete without experiencing the grandeur of the Pena Palace, the mystical allure of Quinta da Regaleira, and the historical charm of the National Palace of Sintra. These architectural marvels beckon visitors, ensuring unforgettable memories for all who wander through their storied halls.