Eu Te Amo PORTUGAL!! – Part II 

(PORTO, AVEIRO, COIMBRA, LAGOS & EVORA)

 

After our adventures in Sintra, we embarked on a drive holiday to explore more of Portugal with our dear friends. Our first destination was the vibrant city of Porto, with a charming detour through Aveiro along the way. 

Aveiro, affectionately known as the ‘Venice of Portugal’ for its picturesque moliceiros (gondola-style boats), greeted us with its undeniable charm. Serendipitously, our visit coincided with the feast of Santa Joanna, daughter of King Afonso V of Portugal, allowing us to witness the city adorned in celebration and religious processions. While the journey from Lisbon was smooth, navigating the narrow streets of Porto proved to be a daunting task, especially as some were inaccessible to vehicles, unbeknownst to Google Maps!

The following days spent in this captivating medieval city were an absolute delight. Our hotel nestled near the picturesque Ribeira, provided the perfect starting point for our exploration of the enchanting riverfront on our very first evening. The subsequent day, we embarked on a captivating free walking tour of the city, immersing ourselves in its rich tapestry of history and culture. A highlight was our visit to the breathtaking São Bento train station, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and National Monument of Portugal. 

Adorned with approximately twenty thousand azulejo tiles, each panel narrates poignant moments from the nation's storied past, while vibrant multicoloured scenes capture the essence of rural life across various regions. Our exploration continued with a visit to the impressive Sé Cathedral, followed by a delightful lunch at the renowned Bolhão market. Here, the bustling lower level offered a cornucopia of tantalizing food and unique souvenirs, while charming restaurants beckoned from the upper level. 

No visit to Porto would be complete without admiring the awe-inspiring beauty of the Igreja de São Francisco and the majestic Palácio da Bolsa, a historic edifice that once housed the city's stock exchange. These architectural marvels are must-see attractions that epitomize Porto's timeless allure. While in the city, treat yourself to a meal at Jimão Tapas e Vinhos but be sure to secure a reservation in advance to savour the culinary delights that await. 

Our day trip to the Douro Valley proved to be an unforgettable highlight of our Porto escapade, offering breathtaking landscapes that exceeded all expectations. While numerous wineries beckoned with the promise of wine-tasting experiences, we opted for a unique wine picnic amidst the picturesque vineyards of Pinhão, specifically at 

Quinta da Roeda. 

There, we were treated to a lavish picnic basket, complete with a bottle of exquisite wine, allowing us to indulge in a leisurely feast while basking in the serene beauty of the surroundings. It comes highly recommended for an unforgettable experience. Following our delightful picnic, we embarked on a scenic hour-long boat ride along the tranquil river. Amidst the peaceful waters, we were pleasantly surprised to overhear snippets of Marathi, courtesy of a tour group from Veena World, adding an unexpected touch of familiarity to our journey. As our day drew to a close, we made a pit stop in the Matosinhos area near Porto, renowned for its exceptional seafood restaurants. Here, at Dom Peixe, we savoured a delectable dinner made from the day's freshest catch, sourced directly from the nearby port. It was a culinary delight that perfectly concluded our day of exploration and indulgence.

 

No trip to Porto would be complete without venturing across the river to the charming city of Vila Nova de Gaia, particularly on a tranquil evening. Here, amidst the storied warehouses housing the city’s famed port wine and the iconic rabelo boats gently bobbing in the river—a reminder of their historic role in transporting the wine - you’ll discover a world of sensory delights. Embark on a wine-tasting journey at one of the esteemed wineries, such as Taylor’s Port, where the rich flavours of their 10-year-old tawny port tantalize the palate. Then make your way to the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar monastery to catch the sunset. It offers panoramic views of Porto and the river that promise to leave you in awe. Afterwards, indulge in the culinary treasures of the Mercado Beira-Rio de Vila Nova de Gaia, an indoor food market brimming with delectable delights.

After bidding farewell to Porto, we embarked on our journey towards Lagos in the stunning Algarve region, albeit a lengthy one. Along the way, we paused in Coimbra to marvel at the renowned Joanina Library - an architectural masterpiece. A word to the wise: be sure to reserve a time slot in advance to avoid waiting for the next available opening, as visitor numbers are carefully regulated. Arriving in Lagos, we checked in to our charming apartment and ventured to a cozy restaurant bar next door, where a friendly Welsh waitress welcomed us. It was the perfect spot to unwind, marking the beginning of our memorable stay in Lagos.

 

The pinnacle of our Lagos experience, and perhaps the entire trip, was the unforgettable boat excursion from Ponte da Piedade to explore the mesmerizing grottoes with Grotto Pioneers (https://www.facebook.com/grottopioneers). The sheer beauty and grandeur of the natural formations took our breath away, once again exceeding our expectations with their sublime beauty. 

This is an absolute must-do when visiting the region - a truly unparalleled experience. Another highly recommended adventure is the boat trip to the renowned Benagil caves, which we embarked on with Carvoeiro Tours. This exhilarating journey aboard a speedboat added an extra dose of excitement to our exploration. 

While in the area, a visit to the dramatic cliffs and pristine beaches of the Sagres Peninsula, along with witnessing the sunset at Cape St. Vincent, comes highly recommended. While some may find the sunset underwhelming, the exhilarating experience of the windy conditions adds an adventurous flair to the spectacle.

In Lagos, our most cherished culinary delight awaited us at Tasca do Kiko, a hidden gem endorsed by my foodie brother, Robin. 😊 While a bit tricky to locate, the effort was richly rewarded. Be sure to book ahead to secure your spot. Saturdays in Lagos, meanwhile, bring the vibrant energy of the farmer’s market at Mercado do Levante, a delightful experience brimming with an abundance of fresh produce. Don't miss the tantalizing stall offering olives and stuffed peppers, the luscious fresh berries, the artisanal bread, and the savoury bifana stall outside - each offering a taste of local delights.

 

Our journey culminated in the enchanting city of Évora, nestled in the picturesque Alentejo region. With its impeccably preserved urban center dating back to the 16th to 18th centuries, Évora has rightfully earned its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Strolling through its winding streets, flanked by charming white houses, is a journey through time. Amidst our explorations, we stumbled upon a delightful gelato spot—Fabrica dos Gelados - that only added to the city’s allure. 😉 The gelato was truly divine, prompting us to indulge in it for dinner on our final evening in Évora.

On another day, we embarked on a scenic drive to explore neighbouring towns in the Alentejo region, including Monsaraz, Vila Viçosa, and Estremoz. Each destination unveiled a treasure trove of beautiful churches, majestic castles, and breathtaking vistas, with Monsaraz capturing our hearts as the standout favourite.

As our incredible vacation came to a close, we couldn't help but feel a tinge of sadness knowing that our time in this beautiful country had reached its end. Departing with heavy hearts, we harboured hopes of returning one day to indulge in even more of the country's rich offerings.

Eu Te Amo PORTUGAL!! – Part I (LISBOA & SINTRA)

Attending my godchild Lianne’s wedding in Sintra, Portugal, was a delightful opportunity to fulfil a long-standing desire to explore the country. Portugal exceeded our every expectation, captivating us with its beauty and charm, and igniting within us a desire for further exploration.

Fearing the risk of our bags and wedding attire not arriving on time, we opted to explore Lisbon before the wedding and save the rest of the country for afterward. Thanks to my niece Shefali’s impeccable recommendation, we were fortunate enough to stay at the Almalusa Alfama, a gem of an accommodation that set the perfect tone for our Portuguese sojourn. We arrived on a Saturday, perfectly timed to explore the enchanting Feira da Ladra, Lisbon’s oldest and most storied flea market, held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The market was a treasure trove of curiosities and delightful souvenirs, making for an engaging and rewarding excursion. 

Following a delightful lunch amidst the market’s lively atmosphere, we ventured to the nearby National Pantheon, drawn by the promise of its breathtaking terrace views. This majestic structure, originally the Church of Saint Engratia built in 1682, was later transformed into the National Pantheon in 1916. Its magnificent dome, completed in 1966, holds the record as the longest construction project in Portugal’s history. An intriguing tidbit: the Portuguese expression “a job like St. Engratia” humorously refers to any task that seems to take an eternity to complete 😊

While in Lisbon, a visit to the Time Out Market is a must for its vibrant atmosphere and diverse culinary offerings. Our dinner there was a delightful introduction to the pescatarian delights that would characterize much of our trip. For a perfect Sunday outing, the LX Factory

is ideal, bustling with boutique clothes, crafts, and jewellery markets. However, what truly captivated us were the pop-up food stalls showcasing local favourites - like sardines and cheese - from all over the country. The highlight of our weekend, though, was the enchanting excursion to Cascais, Cabo da Roca - the westernmost point of continental Europe - and Azenhas do Mar, often called the Santorini of Portugal. We enjoyed a charming meal at Bom Dia, all thanks to the generosity of our friend Angelo. A visit to these towns is something every traveller should not miss.

Walking tours are an excellent way to immerse yourself in a city’s charm, and our tour of Lisbon with Ines Ribeiro from Time Travellers (http://www.timetravellers.pt/en/contact-us/) was exceptional. It took us through Baixa, Alfama, and Chiado, culminating at the breathtaking Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara near Bairro Alto - our first of many stunning viewpoints. This was the perfect place to conclude our tour, as it was a short stroll to Tasca do Manel, a restaurant highly recommended by my foodie brother, Robin, which did not disappoint. 😊

 

When in Portugal, experiencing fado is a must. This traditional Portuguese singing style, deeply expressive and melancholic, is usually associated with pubs and cafés. We chose to visit O Faia, but found it overpriced and the food quite mediocre. A better option would be to explore the many intimate restaurants in Alfama, where you can enjoy authentic fado music alongside the locals.

 

The next morning, we set out to explore the trio of iconic monuments in Belém. The architecture of the Jerónimos Monastery was stunning, though we opted not to pay for the cloisters to avoid the long, sun-drenched queue. Instead, we visited the church and marvelled at Vasco da Gama’s tomb. 

From there, we strolled across the lush gardens of the Praça do Império to the imposing Monument to the Discoveries on the waterfront.

This striking monument, celebrating the explorers of the Age of Discovery, also offers a fantastic viewing terrace to admire the sights of Belém. Following the boulevard along the water’s edge, we reached the iconic Belém Tower. We chose to enjoy its best views from the water on a delightful half-hour Tagus River cruise, which departs conveniently from nearby. Lunch at a quaint spot called Typical Portuguese Grill was a highlight, where we savoured the best grilled sardines of our trip.

After a refreshing rest at the hotel, we ventured out in the evening to explore the Sé Cathedral and the nearby Church of Saint Anthony of Lisbon (also known as Saint Anthony of Padua), traditionally believed to be built on the site of the saint’s birth in 1195. A visit to São Jorge Castle at sunset provided the perfect ending to a wonderfully enriching day.

 

Having explored the highlights of Lisbon, we decided to spend our final day on a day trip outside the city. Our first stop was the Convent of Christ in Tomar. The town of Tomar grew within the walls of this convent, constructed in the late 12th century under the orders of Gualdim de Pais, the fourth Grand Master of the Knights Templar in Portugal. This remarkable site, showcasing architecture and art from the 12th to the 16th centuries, is one of the most significant monuments in Portugal. Next, we visited Alcobaça, renowned for the Monastery of Santa Maria, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded by the Order of Cistercians in 1153 on land donated by Dom Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal. 

The Cistercians revolutionized agriculture in the region by introducing innovative techniques and products, establishing Alcobaça as one of Portugal’s main fruit producers to this day. 

Our final destination was the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fátima, a Marian shrine commemorating the 1917 Marian Apparitions. This serene and beautiful site is a must-visit, offering a profound sense of peace and reverence. 

With Lisbon behind us, the enchanting allure of Sintra awaited.  While I had envisioned a flurry of sightseeing adventures, our schedule filled quickly with wedding festivities, allowing only enough time to explore the magnificent Moorish Castle. This iconic fortress offers awe-inspiring panoramic vistas, making it an essential stop for any traveller. 

However, no visit to Sintra would be complete without experiencing the grandeur of the Pena Palace, the mystical allure of Quinta da Regaleira, and the historical charm of the National Palace of Sintra. These architectural marvels beckon visitors, ensuring unforgettable memories for all who wander through their storied halls.

 TADOBA National Park - It's Time for a Tiger!

Not the Singapore brand of beer, folks 😉

In December 2023, my dream of experiencing a tiger safari finally came true. This time, it was a family affair, with my husband's immediate family joining in on the adventure. Over the years, I had heard a lot about the tiger reserves in India, with Ranthambore and Jim Corbett National Park being the usual suspects. However, a new contender, Tadoba National Park in Chandrapur, Maharashtra, around 150kms from Nagpur city, caught our attention due to its high sighting chances. Our journey to captivating Tadoba began with a flight from Mumbai to Nagpur, a city fondly known as the 'Orange City.' Nagpur serves as a central hub, surrounded by the untamed wilderness of several tiger reserves. With its unique distinction as the Tiger Capital of India, it acted as a gateway to the thrilling adventures that awaited us.

Following the recommendation of my niece, Shefali, we chose The Spotted Owlet for our stay. This boutique homestay, crafted with a keen eye for detail, takes its name from the cute owl that graces the property. Nestled strategically just 2 kms away from the primary safari gate, The Spotted Owlet proved to be a gem in the heart of the Tadoba buffer. Managed by the passionate wildlife conservationist Hans Dalal, this homestay offers more than just comfortable lodging; it provides a unique opportunity to connect with the essence of Tadoba. As we settled into The Spotted Owlet, we couldn't help but appreciate the dedication to conservation and the meticulous attention to detail that earned this homestay a well-deserved feature in Conde Nast.

https://www.cntraveller.in/story/at-this-eco-friendly-homestay-in-tadoba-experience-the-jungle-at-your-doorstep/

The accommodation offered three private cottages, each with a distinct theme inspired by the owner's favorite parks: Ranthambore, Tadoba, and Bandhavgarh. Surpassing our expectations, the cottages not only boasted cleanliness and comfort but also allowed us to immerse ourselves in the ambience of the theme.

However, what truly stood out for us foodies were the culinary delights served during our stay. The full-board accommodation included scrumptious meals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Opting for a unique experience, we enjoyed our breakfasts during the morning safari, strategically pausing at the halfway mark—a thoughtful touch that accommodated not just our rumbling tummies but also our need for convenience, including a timely washroom break. The owner, a self-professed food enthusiast, has imparted his culinary cravings to the staff. A wood-fired oven on the premises elevated our dining experience, treating us to delectable wood-fired pizzas and perfectly grilled starters during one memorable dinner. 

Sheetal, the resident cook, showcased her culinary prowess with an incredibly light pizza dough crafted from scratch. The entire staff at the property personified courtesy, enhancing the overall pleasure of our stay. Evenings were a delight, as we gathered in the dining hall post-dinner, engaging in a variety of games that added a touch of camaraderie to our nights.

During the meticulous planning stage, the invaluable recommendation from my niece was to embark on 2 core zone safaris and 2 buffer zone safaris. Avantika, the ever-helpful liaison at The Spotted Owlet, seamlessly handled our safari bookings and coordinated efficient transport arrangements to and from Nagpur airport, ensuring a hassle-free holiday.

Opting for both core and buffer zone safaris proved sage advice, as the flora and landscape unveiled during these distinct safaris presented a striking contrast. It added a layer of diversity to our exploration, making each excursion a unique and enriching experience. Another worthwhile recommendation was selecting a naturalist guide. Their profound knowledge not only heightened our awareness of the surroundings but also enriched the entire safari experience, turning it into an educational and insightful journey.

Now, the question lingering in the minds of every wildlife enthusiast: "Did we spot a tiger?" The answer, a resounding "Yes!"—not just one, but two majestic creatures. The first, a distant cub, sparked excitement on our core zone safari. However, the true spectacle unfolded during our first buffer zone safari when we encountered Paras, a renowned male tiger. Paras had recently made headlines for engaging in a territorial tussle at Agarzari Gate with another tiger named Taaru. Both around 5 to 6 years old, these tigers showcased the raw essence of the jungle. Our encounter with Paras was nothing short of thrilling, as he stood on his rear legs, reaching up to scratch a tree trunk—a powerful gesture marking his territory. The serendipity continued as our driver, fueled by an infectious enthusiasm, skilfully navigated through the jungle, chasing Paras to ensure an optimal sighting. Despite the likelihood of such experiences being routine for our driver, his genuine passion for the wildlife chase was palpable, adding an extra layer of excitement to our adventure.

During our final safari, an unexpected thrill unfolded as we found ourselves face to face with a leopard, gracefully strolling right in front of our jeep—an extraordinary moment. What made the encounter truly fascinating was the leopard's nonchalant demeanor, seemingly oblivious to the cluster of jeeps around. We were privileged to observe this majestic creature leisurely navigating its territory, a sight that lingered in our memories.  Capturing such moments requires a well-coordinated effort, and the guides excelled in this aspect. They maintained seamless communication with each other via phones, instantly relaying news of noteworthy sightings. It's truly remarkable how they navigate the dense jungle, ensuring that every safari vehicle has the opportunity to witness nature's wonders up close.

Beyond these key sightings, our four safaris treated us to a plethora of wildlife encounters. As an ardent birdwatcher, I was ecstatic to spot numerous bird species along the way. A vibrant photo of the green bee-eater is a testament to the avian wonders that colored our Tadoba experience.

With an unexpected extension to our stay due to a postponed flight, we seized the opportunity to explore the Irai dam through a morning boat ride.

The photo of the Irai dam captures the tranquility of the water, and the experience proved equally spectacular as we marveled at the sight of migratory birds. Our timing couldn't have been better, as a flock of bar-headed geese had arrived just a day prior.

So our Tadoba trip unfolded as nothing short of a lifetime experience, leaving an indelible mark on our hearts and a lingering desire for more. The captivating encounters with tigers, leopards, and the myriad of wildlife have ignited a newfound passion for the untamed beauty of the jungle and I find myself eagerly anticipating the prospect of many more safari tales yet to be written.

For fellow wildlife enthusiasts, here's a comprehensive list of all the animals and birds that graced our 4-day, 3-night sojourn in Tadoba, a testament to the rich biodiversity that makes this sanctuary a haven for nature lovers:

Deer
1. Sambar deer
2. Barking deer
3. Spotted deer
 
Birds
1. Mottled Wood-owl
2. Shikra - raptor
3. Red-wattled lapwing
4. Rufous treepie - it eats pieces of meat, insect moths and fruits trapped between the teeth of the tiger so is called a ‘tiger’s dentist’.
5. Black-hooded ibis
6. Common egret
7. Cattle egret
8. Open bill stork
9. Spotted dove
10. Red-vented bulbul
11. Plum-headed parakeet
12. Little Cormorant
13. Oriental Darter / Indian darter / snakebird
14. Black Drongo
15. Greater Racket-tailed drongo
16. Red-rumped Swallow
17. Crow pheasant / Greater coucal
18. Peacocks / peahens
19. White-throated kingfisher
20. Asian Green bee-eater
21. Green imperial pigeon
22. Yellow-footed green pigeon
23. Jungle owlet
24. Common sandpiper
25. Red avadavat (munia)
26. Jungle babbler
27. Spotted owlet
28. Khaki campbells (ducks)
29. Flameback woodpecker
30. White-breasted water hen
 
Other Animals
1. Hanuman langur
2. Marsh Crocodile
3. Indian grey Mongoose
4. Wild boar
5. Bengal TIGER - cub from a distance and large, male, Paras
6. Nilgai
7. Indian Leopard
8. Indian gaur / bison / wild buffalo
9. Sloth bear
10. Funnel-web spider
 
Irai dam
1. White-throated kingfisher
2. Cotton Pygmy-goose
3. Bar-headed goose
4. Purple heron
5. Purple moorhen
6. River tern
7. Lesser Whistling ducks
8. Red-crested pochards
9. Black ibis
10. Open bill stork
11. Little cormorant
12. Pond heron
13. Oriental Darter / Indian darter / snakebird
14. Eurasian coot (duck)

 Copenhagen Chronicles

After having travelled across Scandinavia, starting from Helsinki, in Finland, it was time to explore our final, and most eagerly awaited, destination, Copenhagen. Given all that the city has to offer, we were glad to have spent the most time here. It was just our kind of city, offering cycling, walking, green spaces and importantly, fantastic food. What more could we ask for? We bought the 4-day City Pass Small, which gives access to all the means of public transport in Zones 1-4 as well as the return trip by train from the city to the airport, if one is travelling light (not really a Mantri thing 😉).

We checked into the charming Coco Hotel just for a night, since we needed to book this last minute. I’m glad we got to experience it. Very cute, cosy boutique hotel and highly recommended if looking for affordable accommodation in this expensive city. Our first day was spent walking by the Christianshavn canal and getting a glimpse of the colourful, slightly notorious, lawless Freetown Christiania. Its’ Pusher Street is famous for its open trade of cannabis, which is illegal in Denmark. 

We headed there after lunch at Popl Burger, started by a core team of Noma (voted as the World’s Best Restaurant for several years) veterans. Little wonder then that the burger was the best we have EVER had and it’s going to be tough to beat!

The beer accompaniment was delicious too. With appetites sated, and a quick exploration of Freetown Christiania, we thought we would climb the bell tower of the Church of Our Saviour, which also happened to be in the neighbourhood. However, it was prohibited on the day, given the gusty wind conditions which rendered the climb dangerous. So, we decided to do the canal tour of Copenhagen, offered by Stromma, instead. A great way to see the city from the water and a must-do. This was followed by a stroll around Nyhavn, with its colourful houses, lively restaurants and narrow side streets.

The next day, we headed to Amalienborg Palace and walked to the statue of the Little Mermaid – the Statue of Liberty of Copenhagen of sorts. 

On the return, we walked through the beautiful Langelinie Park and past Kastellet, a 17th century fortress, back to the palace just in time for the Changing of the Guard at noon. The guards march from the Rosenborg Castle to reach Amalienborg by noon. A fun fact is that the bearskin hats worn by the royal guard, each weigh about 6 kgs and cost 50,000 Danish kroner! 

Following that, the beautiful Frederiksberg Church or The Marble Church, as it is more commonly known, for its rococo architecture, is a must-visit. Exquisite interiors! It has the largest church dome in Scandinavia with a span of 31m, resting on 12 columns, with the inspiration suspected to be St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

Lunch at Aaman’s deli to taste the renowned smorrebrod, beckoned thereafter and it did not disappoint. The Netflix program ‘Somebody Feed Phil’, was the inspiration for some of our dining choices in the city, and most hit the spot. 

We decided to explore just one palace / castle from the inside and Rosenborg Castle was the obvious choice. It is reportedly one of the most well-preserved Renaissance castles in the world, with some of the rooms almost completely as they were when the castle was built in the early 1600’s. The castle was built by King Christian IV between 1606 and 1624. We were awestruck by the artefacts made of ivory and amber, dating from 1585 to 1850.

The crown jewels were spectacular too, as were the tapestries that adorned the walls. Well worth a visit. We decided to grab an early bite at the highly recommended Torvehallerne Food Hall before heading back to the hotel. The tacos and margarita from Hija de Sanchez were the highlight for me.

One can’t leave Copenhagen without trying one’s hand at a bit of biking, so we did so on two occasions. The first was before our visit to the Rosenborg Castle, around Ostre Anlaeg park and the second time, was in Faelledparken, the only park where one is allowed to bike within the park. For those interested in doing so, download the app ‘Donkey Republic’ and set up an account ahead. It is super easy to rent and return bikes on the app. The parks that were scattered all over the city really endeared us to the city. The lovely weather and cute fauna – ducks, geese and swans with their young – made for memorable moments. If one has time, Frederiksberg Park is really pretty and we are glad that we visited.

The following morning, we finally did get to climb the bell tower of the Church of Our Saviour and the views from the top made the gruelling climb worth it. Another must-do when in the city. Not having had enough of climbing 😊, we headed to climb the Round Tower observatory and popped into the adjoining Trinitatis Church. 

Of course, Tivoli Gardens is not to be missed and after resting at the hotel, we headed there in the evening. Lots of rides, performances, beautiful flora and the nightly illumination show at the end make for a lovely evening. Gasoline Grill burgers within the park and Letz Sushi at the Tivoli Food Hall sated our appetites while we were at it. 

Reffen street food is also not to be missed and an experience in itself. It is the largest street food venue in the Nordics – 6000 sq.m. in area and over 50 stalls, offering food from all over the world! We chose to go on a Friday for the ‘Beer and Blues’ fest. The Argentinian Fuego street food, Gosht – Kurdish street food and pulled pork tacos from Tacos Pastor were our favourites. 

So having ticked off all the must-dos on our list, the last day was spent walking down the popular Stroget street in town to pick up a few souvenirs. Finally, it was time to head back to Singapore and we were really sad to leave this beautiful region, though felt blessed to have been able to visit. Signing off till the next adventure…

 Nuts about NORWAY 

I had heard a lot about Norway in the context of experiencing the Northern Lights in winter. But what I didn’t expect, was for the country to be just as beautiful, if not more so, in other seasons. I have to thank all my friends who recommended that we make Norway the key focus of our Scandinavian spring sojourn.

From Stockholm, we flew into Bergen, “The Capital of the Fjords” and the starting point of our exploration of the country. Thankfully, we chose to spend 3 nights in this gorgeous town. We lucked out with a perfectly designed, centrally located apartment, a few minutes’ walk to the fish market, in the heart of town. We fell in love with the town from the get-go as it reminded us of the beautiful, little towns in Europe that we had come to love – Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic, Zermatt in Switzerland and the quaint Tuscan towns in Italy come to mind.

After having settled into the apartment, we couldn’t wait to start exploring the town on foot and what better place to start than the Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf. 

It is a UNESCO world heritage site and a reminder of the town’s importance as part of the Hanseatic League’s trading empire from the 14th to the mid-16th century. Many fires, the last in 1955, ravaged the characteristic wooden houses of Bryggen. Its rebuilding has traditionally followed old patterns and methods, thus leaving its main structure preserved, which is a relic of an ancient wooden urban structure once common in Northern Europe. After a longish walk, the Mantris had to decide where to eat and the restaurant at the top of the recommended list it was. As it turned out, our dinner at Bryggeloftet & Stuene ended up being the best of our entire trip. In fact, that day, we were fortunate with the food choices. Earlier, we had stumbled upon Kaf Kafe Bryggen, which serves awesome coffee and nibbles.

The next day, we took the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mount Floyen, 

which is a must-do while here. The views from the top are breath-taking besides offering a lot of gorgeous treks. And trek the Mantris did. As a reward, we treated ourselves to the yummy soft serve ice cream at the café at the top before taking the funicular back to town. Feeling peckish by the time we were done, the scrumptious hotdogs from Trekroneren really hit the spot! After a bit more walking in town and a rest at the apartment, it was time for dinner at the fish market and we chose Fjellskaal. The fish and chips of cod were the best we have ever eaten!

On Day 3 we decided to do a fjord cruise to Mostraumen, 
which is highly recommended. The views were to die for! That evening, after a delicious Mediterranean dinner at Baban Grill Pa Kull, Nordnes beckoned for the sunset and we were sad to be leaving this beautiful town the next day.

The next morning, we embarked on the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ tour which is a must-do for any visitor to the country. The journey kicks off with a train ride to Voss. From there, it is a scenic bus ride to Gudvangen, where we got our first glimpses of snow-clad mountains. In Gudvangen, we boarded a fjord cruise to take us to Flåm. The cruise passes the Naeroyfjord and Aurlandsfjord along the way. Absolutely stunning scenery! On reaching Flam, one has the option to continue onwards to Oslo after spending two hours in the town. However, we decided to spend the night at the lovely Flamsbrygga Hotel and boy, are we glad we did! 

The restaurant Aegir Bryggeri, which was part of the hotel, was amazing and where the boys tried the 5-course Viking plank, paired with 5 different beers. An experience in itself!

We had done a short trek prior to dinner but saved the more strenuous trek to the Brekkefossen waterfall for the next day since we were taking the train out only at 4.00 p.m. While we had to negotiate around 570 steps on the way up, the views from the top were well worth the effort. Then it was back for a pint at the brewery before catching the Flamsbana train to Myrdal.

The Flåm Railway has been described as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world and is one of the leading tourist attractions in Norway. The train runs from the end of Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the Sognefjord, up to the high mountains at Myrdal station. The journey features the finest aspects of the stunning scenery of Western Norway. The pictures speak for themselves.

With our cruise company making a last-minute change to the schedule, we ended up having just half a day to explore Oslo. We chose to visit the Vigeland Sculpture Park and the Fram polar ship museum, both great choices. 

The former is Gustav Vigeland's life work, comprising over 200 sculptures in granite, bronze and wrought iron. It was installed mainly in the period 1940-1949, but is a result of over 40 years of work.

Not only were the sculptures very impressive, but the park itself was beautiful and lovely to walk around.

Meanwhile, the Fram Museum contains exhibitions of the most famous voyages of global historical significance. The centerpiece of the museum is the world´s strongest wooden ship, the polar ship Fram, which successfully completed 3 polar expeditions.

The public can go on board to see her cabins, lounges, cargo hold and engine room. It was very interesting and the interactive exhibits at the museum contributed to the overall experience. After a quick bite at Oslo Street Food (since our first choice, Mathallen, was closed), it was time to board our DFDS cruise for Copenhagen. It was a wonderful journey, made even better with 2 Commodore cabins as well as lounge access. We had a blast in the bar, playing the Danish version of scrabble.

We were excited to be spending the last few days of our Nordic sojourn in the highly recommended city of Copenhagen, which definitely lived up to our expectations. More about that in a separate blog 😊