Copenhagen Chronicles

After having travelled across Scandinavia, starting from Helsinki, in Finland, it was time to explore our final, and most eagerly awaited, destination, Copenhagen. Given all that the city has to offer, we were glad to have spent the most time here. It was just our kind of city, offering cycling, walking, green spaces and importantly, fantastic food. What more could we ask for? We bought the 4-day City Pass Small, which gives access to all the means of public transport in Zones 1-4 as well as the return trip by train from the city to the airport, if one is travelling light (not really a Mantri thing 😉).

We checked into the charming Coco Hotel just for a night, since we needed to book this last minute. I’m glad we got to experience it. Very cute, cosy boutique hotel and highly recommended if looking for affordable accommodation in this expensive city. Our first day was spent walking by the Christianshavn canal and getting a glimpse of the colourful, slightly notorious, lawless Freetown Christiania. Its’ Pusher Street is famous for its open trade of cannabis, which is illegal in Denmark. 

We headed there after lunch at Popl Burger, started by a core team of Noma (voted as the World’s Best Restaurant for several years) veterans. Little wonder then that the burger was the best we have EVER had and it’s going to be tough to beat!

The beer accompaniment was delicious too. With appetites sated, and a quick exploration of Freetown Christiania, we thought we would climb the bell tower of the Church of Our Saviour, which also happened to be in the neighbourhood. However, it was prohibited on the day, given the gusty wind conditions which rendered the climb dangerous. So, we decided to do the canal tour of Copenhagen, offered by Stromma, instead. A great way to see the city from the water and a must-do. This was followed by a stroll around Nyhavn, with its colourful houses, lively restaurants and narrow side streets.

The next day, we headed to Amalienborg Palace and walked to the statue of the Little Mermaid – the Statue of Liberty of Copenhagen of sorts. 

On the return, we walked through the beautiful Langelinie Park and past Kastellet, a 17th century fortress, back to the palace just in time for the Changing of the Guard at noon. The guards march from the Rosenborg Castle to reach Amalienborg by noon. A fun fact is that the bearskin hats worn by the royal guard, each weigh about 6 kgs and cost 50,000 Danish kroner! 

Following that, the beautiful Frederiksberg Church or The Marble Church, as it is more commonly known, for its rococo architecture, is a must-visit. Exquisite interiors! It has the largest church dome in Scandinavia with a span of 31m, resting on 12 columns, with the inspiration suspected to be St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

Lunch at Aaman’s deli to taste the renowned smorrebrod, beckoned thereafter and it did not disappoint. The Netflix program ‘Somebody Feed Phil’, was the inspiration for some of our dining choices in the city, and most hit the spot. 

We decided to explore just one palace / castle from the inside and Rosenborg Castle was the obvious choice. It is reportedly one of the most well-preserved Renaissance castles in the world, with some of the rooms almost completely as they were when the castle was built in the early 1600’s. The castle was built by King Christian IV between 1606 and 1624. We were awestruck by the artefacts made of ivory and amber, dating from 1585 to 1850.

The crown jewels were spectacular too, as were the tapestries that adorned the walls. Well worth a visit. We decided to grab an early bite at the highly recommended Torvehallerne Food Hall before heading back to the hotel. The tacos and margarita from Hija de Sanchez were the highlight for me.

One can’t leave Copenhagen without trying one’s hand at a bit of biking, so we did so on two occasions. The first was before our visit to the Rosenborg Castle, around Ostre Anlaeg park and the second time, was in Faelledparken, the only park where one is allowed to bike within the park. For those interested in doing so, download the app ‘Donkey Republic’ and set up an account ahead. It is super easy to rent and return bikes on the app. The parks that were scattered all over the city really endeared us to the city. The lovely weather and cute fauna – ducks, geese and swans with their young – made for memorable moments. If one has time, Frederiksberg Park is really pretty and we are glad that we visited.

The following morning, we finally did get to climb the bell tower of the Church of Our Saviour and the views from the top made the gruelling climb worth it. Another must-do when in the city. Not having had enough of climbing 😊, we headed to climb the Round Tower observatory and popped into the adjoining Trinitatis Church. 

Of course, Tivoli Gardens is not to be missed and after resting at the hotel, we headed there in the evening. Lots of rides, performances, beautiful flora and the nightly illumination show at the end make for a lovely evening. Gasoline Grill burgers within the park and Letz Sushi at the Tivoli Food Hall sated our appetites while we were at it. 

Reffen street food is also not to be missed and an experience in itself. It is the largest street food venue in the Nordics – 6000 sq.m. in area and over 50 stalls, offering food from all over the world! We chose to go on a Friday for the ‘Beer and Blues’ fest. The Argentinian Fuego street food, Gosht – Kurdish street food and pulled pork tacos from Tacos Pastor were our favourites. 

So having ticked off all the must-dos on our list, the last day was spent walking down the popular Stroget street in town to pick up a few souvenirs. Finally, it was time to head back to Singapore and we were really sad to leave this beautiful region, though felt blessed to have been able to visit. Signing off till the next adventure…

 Nuts about NORWAY 

I had heard a lot about Norway in the context of experiencing the Northern Lights in winter. But what I didn’t expect, was for the country to be just as beautiful, if not more so, in other seasons. I have to thank all my friends who recommended that we make Norway the key focus of our Scandinavian spring sojourn.

From Stockholm, we flew into Bergen, “The Capital of the Fjords” and the starting point of our exploration of the country. Thankfully, we chose to spend 3 nights in this gorgeous town. We lucked out with a perfectly designed, centrally located apartment, a few minutes’ walk to the fish market, in the heart of town. We fell in love with the town from the get-go as it reminded us of the beautiful, little towns in Europe that we had come to love – Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic, Zermatt in Switzerland and the quaint Tuscan towns in Italy come to mind.

After having settled into the apartment, we couldn’t wait to start exploring the town on foot and what better place to start than the Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf. 

It is a UNESCO world heritage site and a reminder of the town’s importance as part of the Hanseatic League’s trading empire from the 14th to the mid-16th century. Many fires, the last in 1955, ravaged the characteristic wooden houses of Bryggen. Its rebuilding has traditionally followed old patterns and methods, thus leaving its main structure preserved, which is a relic of an ancient wooden urban structure once common in Northern Europe. After a longish walk, the Mantris had to decide where to eat and the restaurant at the top of the recommended list it was. As it turned out, our dinner at Bryggeloftet & Stuene ended up being the best of our entire trip. In fact, that day, we were fortunate with the food choices. Earlier, we had stumbled upon Kaf Kafe Bryggen, which serves awesome coffee and nibbles.

The next day, we took the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mount Floyen, 

which is a must-do while here. The views from the top are breath-taking besides offering a lot of gorgeous treks. And trek the Mantris did. As a reward, we treated ourselves to the yummy soft serve ice cream at the café at the top before taking the funicular back to town. Feeling peckish by the time we were done, the scrumptious hotdogs from Trekroneren really hit the spot! After a bit more walking in town and a rest at the apartment, it was time for dinner at the fish market and we chose Fjellskaal. The fish and chips of cod were the best we have ever eaten!

On Day 3 we decided to do a fjord cruise to Mostraumen, 
which is highly recommended. The views were to die for! That evening, after a delicious Mediterranean dinner at Baban Grill Pa Kull, Nordnes beckoned for the sunset and we were sad to be leaving this beautiful town the next day.

The next morning, we embarked on the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ tour which is a must-do for any visitor to the country. The journey kicks off with a train ride to Voss. From there, it is a scenic bus ride to Gudvangen, where we got our first glimpses of snow-clad mountains. In Gudvangen, we boarded a fjord cruise to take us to Flåm. The cruise passes the Naeroyfjord and Aurlandsfjord along the way. Absolutely stunning scenery! On reaching Flam, one has the option to continue onwards to Oslo after spending two hours in the town. However, we decided to spend the night at the lovely Flamsbrygga Hotel and boy, are we glad we did! 

The restaurant Aegir Bryggeri, which was part of the hotel, was amazing and where the boys tried the 5-course Viking plank, paired with 5 different beers. An experience in itself!

We had done a short trek prior to dinner but saved the more strenuous trek to the Brekkefossen waterfall for the next day since we were taking the train out only at 4.00 p.m. While we had to negotiate around 570 steps on the way up, the views from the top were well worth the effort. Then it was back for a pint at the brewery before catching the Flamsbana train to Myrdal.

The Flåm Railway has been described as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world and is one of the leading tourist attractions in Norway. The train runs from the end of Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the Sognefjord, up to the high mountains at Myrdal station. The journey features the finest aspects of the stunning scenery of Western Norway. The pictures speak for themselves.

With our cruise company making a last-minute change to the schedule, we ended up having just half a day to explore Oslo. We chose to visit the Vigeland Sculpture Park and the Fram polar ship museum, both great choices. 

The former is Gustav Vigeland's life work, comprising over 200 sculptures in granite, bronze and wrought iron. It was installed mainly in the period 1940-1949, but is a result of over 40 years of work.

Not only were the sculptures very impressive, but the park itself was beautiful and lovely to walk around.

Meanwhile, the Fram Museum contains exhibitions of the most famous voyages of global historical significance. The centerpiece of the museum is the world´s strongest wooden ship, the polar ship Fram, which successfully completed 3 polar expeditions.

The public can go on board to see her cabins, lounges, cargo hold and engine room. It was very interesting and the interactive exhibits at the museum contributed to the overall experience. After a quick bite at Oslo Street Food (since our first choice, Mathallen, was closed), it was time to board our DFDS cruise for Copenhagen. It was a wonderful journey, made even better with 2 Commodore cabins as well as lounge access. We had a blast in the bar, playing the Danish version of scrabble.

We were excited to be spending the last few days of our Nordic sojourn in the highly recommended city of Copenhagen, which definitely lived up to our expectations. More about that in a separate blog 😊

Wonderful NORDIC Sojourn

Our trip to Scandinavia in the spring of 2023 surprised on the upside. 

Before I proceed to detail some of what we experienced, a few tips to get a head start: 1. Travel in shoulder season (May or September), 2. Book accommodation and travel at least 3 months prior as prices start to soar closer to the date, 3. Book your own modes of transport rather than rely on tour companies, 4. Buy an eSIM card which covers all the Scandinavian countries to help with Google maps etc. and 5. Buy multi-day public transport passes in the different cities to make the best use of the amazing transport options available.

Our introduction to the Nordic countries started with a touchdown in Helsinki, where we spent the first two nights. In 2012, the city was awarded the UNESCO “City of Design” title, boasting its very own Design District. After checking in, the day was spent exploring the Toolonlahti area and Sibelius Park followed by the Senate Square.

Two things stood out for us. The Sibelius Monument, by Eila Hiltunen, dedicated to the Finnish composer, Jean Sibelius(1865–1957) and the 

Temppeliaukio Rock Church, a Lutheran church, which opened in 1969, built directly into solid rock. 

Besides sightseeing, food is key for the Mantris, so began the hunt for good food 😊 Ravintola Kannas hit the spot for dinner, while the Old Market Hall and all its delicious stalls were the best place to grab lunch. We tried the local delicacies of reindeer meat (which was too gamey for me), pickled herring and, of course, salmon in all its avatars, all of it delicious.

The highlight whilst staying in Helsinki, was the day trip to Tallinn, in Estonia, by ferry. The Old Town was simply magnificent. The meal at Rataskaevu 16 was also one of the best of our trip. Everything we ordered was not only beautifully plated, but also tasted divine. In our opinion, the restaurant is definitely worthy of a Michelin star rating. But thankfully it wasn’t, which meant that the meal was very affordable.

A trip to the 18^th century sea fortress, Suomenlinna, was also well worth the effort. The walk to the King’s Gate was interesting.  Famous for its’ bastion fortifications, Suomenlinna became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. Then it was on board an overnight Silja Line cruise to Stockholm, which was an experience in itself. We decided to throw in a couple of cruises as a means of transport in our itinerary, given that we hardly do so. Besides transporting you to the next destination, it also takes care of a night’s stay.

On arriving in Stockholm, we headed to the renowned Old Town, Gamla Stan. A visit to the Nobel Prize Museum was first on the cards. However, an unfortunate turn of events led to that being postponed by half a day. Hardly had we reached Gamla Stan when hubby’s passport was pick-pocketed! Apparently, this is pretty common in the Old Town, given the hordes of tourists. So people, be warned! Thanks to the amazing Singapore immigration authorities in Copenhagen and the prompt police response in Stockholm, we could continue with the rest of our holiday. However, we had to skip the Changing of the Guard at the Royal Palace.

Given that there are several must-do museums and boat trips in Stockholm, it is advisable to get the GoCity pass which gives one access to most of the attractions. It also allows one to avail of the Hop On, Hop Off bus, though we refrained from doing so as it is pretty slow and not efficient. We preferred to use the Metro.

On our second day in Stockholm, we focused on seeing the 4 museums on our short-list in the royal parkland, Djurgården – Vasa, Skansen, Viking and Abba. The last is not included in the GoCity pass and it’s best that one books tickets in advance as entry is limited and by appointment only.

Vasa museum  was our favourite. It is one of Scandinavia's most visited museums and here you will find, the unique and well-preserved warship, Vasa, from 1628, embellished with hundreds of wooden sculptures. It is a Swedish warship which sank after sailing just 1,300 m into her maiden voyage because of a design flaw. It was salvaged after 333 years, from the bottom of Stockholm bay.

Skansen is the oldest open-air museumand zoo, opened in 1891 by Artur Hazelius to show the way of life in the different parts of Sweden before the industrial era. After extensive travelling, Hazelius bought around 150 houses from all over the country (as well as one structure from Telemark in Norway) and had them shipped piece by piece to the museum, where they were rebuilt to provide a unique picture of traditional Sweden.

The Abba Museum had lots of memorabilia – cars, outfits, etc. – with a few interactive stations providing entertainment.  While exploring the museums in Djurgarden, lunch at Rosendals Tradgard is a must. The simple offerings of this café were scrumptious. Other lovely cafes to consider for a quick bite in town are the chains Brod & Salt and Fabrique.

A must-do in Stockholm is the Under the Bridges of Stockholm ferry ride which gives one a great glimpse of the city from the water. We enjoyed the ferry ride to Fjäderholmarna, the closest of Stockholm’s Archipelago islands, as well. A lovely, early dinner at Fjäderholmarnas Krog made it worth our while.

So after having had a lovely introduction to the Nordic / Baltic countries of Finland, Estonia and Sweden, it was onward to Norway, which deserves to be dealt with in a blog on its own…

Ayubowan! Welcome to SRI LANKA!

The moment we stepped onto our Sri Lankan airlines flight to Colombo, we were greeted with ‘Ayubowan’, a Sinhalese salutation wishing the recipient a long life, typically used as a greeting or a goodbye. And this was to be heard a lot throughout our trip 😊 What a wonderful, gracious introduction to the beautiful country that is Sri Lanka.

The first day, we only had enough time to meet our wonderful helper of 4 years, Ramanee, and her family, after 14 years (!!) and head to what was to be the best meal of our trip, at Ministry of Crab. Started by a duo of Sri Lankan cricketing legends, Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar Sangakarra, the restaurant has a fantastic reputation and has gained a lot of attention as possibly Sri Lanka’s best restaurant. The crabs were definitely the main attraction, but the prawns were outstanding too. Being the foodies we are, there could be no better introduction to the country 😊 And as we continued to travel through the country, we continued to have other fantastic culinary encounters, which is the key reason I hope to be back for more 😊

The next day, we set off very early for Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage in order to reach there by 9.15-9.30 in time for the elephant feeding. Since we were making good time, we stopped for a wonderful breakfast at Awanhala on the way, which was our first sampling (of many!) of the awesome Sri Lankan hoppers and curries / sambals. On arrival at Pinnawala, we spent some time feeding the elephants with a variety of fruits before positioning ourselves on the road which the elephants take to head to the river for their bath. The whole experience was endearing and it was fun to watch the amusing antics of the elephants.

Then it was on to Ramboda falls, another stop on the drive to Nuwara Eliya or ‘Little England’ as it is called, where we would be spending two nights. The weather was perfect with temperatures dropping to 11-12 degrees Celsius at night. Since we arrived only in the evening, we decided to spend all of the next day exploring the various sights in and around Nuwara Eliya. The post office was a good place to start. The Tudor-style two-storey red-brick building with a clock spire, was constructed in 1894 by the British. We also explored the Hakgala Botanical Gardens, Ambewela Farm and did a boat ride on Gregory Lake. When in these parts, one has to experience a typical High Tea and the Grand Hotel was a good place to do so. In fact, we loved the service and ambience so much that we made our way back for dinner on the day as well, with a round of billiards for the boys adding to the fun.

Then it was on to Ella by train from Nanuoya, which is deemed to be one of the most scenic train rides in the world. One can soak in views of tea plantations, little villages, waterfalls and verdant hills. And while the train is not luxurious, the scenic beauty is definitely worth your while as is the chit-chat with tourists from all over the world. We booked the Observation Class on the morning train and thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience. Would highly recommend this if travelling to the region. 

Ella is a small backpacker-hub on the southern edge of Hill Country and the surrounding region has beautiful vistas wherever you look. It was here that we climbed Little Adam’s Peak, one of the most fun things we did on the trip. 

Waiting for the Blue Train to make its appearance on the Nine Arch Bridge in Demodara was also lovely. It is also called the Bridge in the Sky and is one of the best examples of colonial-era railway construction in the country. We were lucky to have been able to visit the tea factory at Uva given that the ones in Nuwara Eliya were on strike. The guide’s presentation was very informative and technical and he patiently took us through the entire tea-making process. In fact, throughout the trip we thoroughly enjoyed the various Sri Lankan teas on offer and bought an assortment of teas to bring back home. It was in Ella where we had one of the best meals of our trip at the Ceylon Tea Factory restaurant and is a must-do when in the area.

Done with Hill Country, it was time to head to the beach and Unawatuna was where we chose to stay given its proximity to Galle, our helper Shanthi’s house and the option to learn surfing nearby. Ravana Falls is a pretty stop just outside Ella on the drive there. Our chauffeur-guide chose to drive us along the coast which was an experience in itself. We stopped to see the stilt-fishing rods though there were no fishermen around. A lunch stop at the Matara guest house was very authentic with loads of sambals and curries to try and very reasonably priced.

Our stay in Unawatuna was lovely, thanks in no small measure to our wonderful homestay. Large, clean rooms, great breakfasts, friendly hosts and proximity to the beach made it a great choice. One of the highlights of staying there was the amazing seafood offerings for dinner on the beach each night and Kingfisher had our vote for the best service and food so we headed there twice. Whilst there, we spent an entire day with Shanthi, Ramanee and their families in the village of Galgodawatte. Playing cricket with a makeshift bat, sampling the produce of the land, a walk to the river and a delicious meal of ‘lamprais’, lovingly prepared by the two sisters, made for wonderful memories to last a lifetime. Lamprais, commonly known as lump rice, is a Dutch Burgher-influenced dish derived from the Dutch word lomprijst, which loosely translated means a packet of food. It usually consists of two special curries (a three meat curry - beef, pork and lamb - and ash plaintain with aubergine), seeni sambal, belacan, etc and rice boiled in stock, all of which is wrapped in banana leaves and baked in an oven.

On the last day, it was on to Colombo for a spot of shopping and to spend our Silver Wedding eve at the Galle Face Hotel. The service was outstanding and we even got a room upgrade and a complimentary cake with dinner. So, all in all, a fabulous end to our trip. I fell in love with the clean country, its people and of course relished the cuisine so hope to be back someday. Our tour company and chauffeur ensured that we had an enjoyable experience and one to remember fondly. Ayubowan Sri Lanka! Till we see you again…

The NETHERLANDS and BRUGES – Beers, countryside

and more

Our short trip to The Netherlands and Bruges was fabulous and while I wish we had stayed on longer, we made the best of our short time there.

First stop was Amsterdam and since we arrived past 8.00 p.m., all we had time for was a quick beer and some bites at a neighbouring restaurant, Gent Aan De Schinkel. As it turned out, this would become our ‘go to’ place for a couple more dinners in Amsterdam after a mediocre and overpriced meal in the tourist area of Leidseplein. (Tip: There are tons of ‘Argentinian Steakhouses’ but all of them are far from it.)

Our B&B, a 20-minute tram ride from the city centre, was lovely. There was great attention to detail, generous breakfasts and free use of bicycles as needed, making for a wonderful stay. That it was very close to Vondelpark made it much lovelier as it allowed us to easily stroll and cycle in the park and watch the locals go about their daily lives. Outdoor gym and yoga sessions seemed to be very popular, as well as dogs joining their owners for an evening run!

Visiting the Anne Frank house, Heineken Experience and Van Gogh Museum were the highlights of Amsterdam for us. Thankfully we had booked tickets online well before hand so avoided the queues on the day. The commentary for the museums was very informative. The Heineken Experience was well-curated, especially the interactive exhibits at the end that made for some great family moments. That we were already in high spirits, having downed the free beers that came with the tour (a very generous 3 half-pints each!), likely helped in that regard 😉 

Walking around Dam Square, the Museumkwartier, the Jordaan neighbourhood and the 9 Streets was interesting. We managed to find some great cafes for lunch where we got scrumptious sandwiches and pancakes, while buying the famous Dutch cheeses at one of the morning markets and the cheese shops that were literally around every corner. And of course, one can’t miss doing a canal cruise when in Amsterdam as it gives a great introduction to the city from the water as well as a visit to the famous but not-so-PG Red Light district 😊

We were recommended the Zaanse Schans Windmills, Marken and Volendam tour, which provided a glimpse into the working of windmills, a cheese factory and how clogs are made. However, the tour was too rushed we felt and tour companies would do well to add on another 1.5-2 hours to the tour so that customers can savour each of the towns at leisure. If one has the time, these are doable on one’s own over a day so would recommend that, though would involve slightly more effort.

The highlight of the Netherlands for us though, was the day trip to Delft and Madurodam. The little town of Delft was beautiful and had an old town feel. The Markt was a lovely place to sit, people-watch and catch a performance. We were fortunate to be able to watch the Durham University Brass Band in action. While in town, a short walk to Oostpoort is highly recommended for the lovely views. 

The boys decided to climb all of 375 steps of the tower of the New Church (the 2^nd highest tower in the Netherlands) for the views while I shopped around the Markt square for cheese and pottery 😊 It was here that we indulged in our best dessert of the trip – poffertjes - at Willem Van Oranje. Other must-try food while in the Netherlands are Kibbeling (a Dutch snack consisting of battered chunks of fish, commonly served with a mayonnaise-based garlic sauce or tartar sauce), croquettes, bitterballen (a Dutch meat-based snack, typically containing a mixture of beef or veal, minced or chopped, beef broth, butter, flour for thickening, parsley, salt and pepper, resulting in a thick roux) and of course the endless varieties of Dutch cheese.

From there it was on to Madurodam, a theme park, which has all the key monuments in the Netherlands in miniature (built at a scale of 1:25). It was intended to be a happy memorial to George Maduro, built by his parents following his passing at the end of World War II, where he fought the Nazi occupation forces as a member of the Dutch resistance and died at Dachau concentration camp in 1945. 1.5 hours is sufficient to cover the park given its small size. I just had to tick this off the list given my Mum used to talk about it a lot. We managed to buy lovely souvenirs at the shop too before being picked up for dinner with a friend.

Then it was on to Bruges by train where we spent our final two nights and this was definitely the best part of the trip. The Belgian countryside is beautiful and travelling by train allows one to take in all the sights – fields, cattle grazing, windmills, etc. The town itself is absolutely stunning and we thoroughly enjoyed walking through the streets, taking a different route each time. The streets were lined with all kinds of shops with a predominance of gourmet chocolate and some Belgian waffle ones. Need I say more?

Catching two World Cup soccer matches at two different pubs was an amazing experience given how soccer-crazy the Belgians are. And of course, with the awesome, freshly-brewed Bruges Zot beer to go along. In fact, very surprised that I had never heard about this particular beer given that it is so delicious and widely available all over town. In fact, one can do a brewery tour at De Halve Maan where it is brewed, though we didn’t have time. Bieratelier, where one can do a 12-beer tasting session was interesting and very quaint and a lucky find on the way to Minnewater Park and the Beguinhof. Our meals at the oldest café in Bruges, Vlissinghe, and Café Cambrinus (where we tried the famous Flemish beef stew) were great though the service at the latter was terrible! The piece the resistance however, was the fabulous cycle ride through the countryside to Damme where we had the best meal in Bruges at Tante Marie. Viren’s ex-boss offered to be our guide for the trip and we would never have been able to do it on our own so we are really thankful to him. He even guided us in ordering lunch which included the tiny North Sea grey shrimps, croquettes, salmon quiche and the famous Dutch pancakes, Pannekoek, and boy was everything mouth-watering! Stopping along the way to admire fields of barley, corn and potatoes and watch the various water birds tend to their young was simply amazing. Apparently, it was the season for the eggs to hatch and we were fortunate to encounter several bird families with their young. Adorable!! What an ending to the holiday!

So there you have it. Couldn’t have asked for more for my early 50^th birthday celebration. Feel blessed. Signing off till the next travelogue…

Colourful RAJASTHAN – A dream come true

Our trip to Rajasthan in end-Jan/early-Feb of 2018 was a dream come true and a perfect start to 2018.

Having just 6 nights to explore, we limited ourselves to 3 towns / cities with Kumbhalgarh being the first. Though not a town on most tourists’ lists as there is so much else to see in this vast state, I would highly recommend it, not least because of the Kumbhalgarh Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013. Built during the 15^th century by Rana Kumbha and enlarged throughout the 19^th century, this was the birthplace of the great king and warrior of Mewar, Maharana Pratap. The perimeter of the wall extends over 36 km long making it the second longest continuous wall in the world, only behind the Great Wall of China. Importantly, the fort remained impregnable to direct assault. A good time to explore the fort is around 4.00 p.m. as one can remain for the Sound and Light Show which takes place every evening from 6.45-7.30 p.m, to see the fort lit up at night. Though we did not have time to explore it, another key attraction is the Kumbhalgarh wildlife sanctuary where night tours are popular. We did however, visit the ‘Hammeripal Lake’ to feed the thousands of African catfish that reside there. It was a sight to behold! 

Kumbhalgarh also dished up two of our best meals of our trip. The first was at the restaurant in The Aodhi Hotel, one of the heritage hotels of India, so comes highly recommended. It was here that we were introduced to ‘laal maas’. It was melt-in-your-mouth delicious to say the least, so more than lived up to expectations. The service was impeccable to boot so it was worth every penny. The second great meal was at a little, nondescript vegetarian restaurant called Shreeji, not far from our abode, the Club Mahindra Fort. This is also considered a heritage hotel, in beautiful surroundings.

Then it was on to Jodhpur, also known as the Blue City for its cerulean-painted houses. One thing about travelling in Rajasthan is that it involves a lot of driving between the different destinations, which can be tiring. We reached Jodhpur by lunch time and headed off to explore the much touted Mehrangarh Fort and Jaswant Thada. As it turns out, they were the most impressive of all the monuments we visited on this trip. The former is one of the largest forts in India, built around 1460 by Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur. One year after his accession to the throne, he decided to move his capital to a more secure location as the 1000-year-old Mandore Fort was no longer considered safe. Entry to the fort is via a series of 7 gates or ‘pols’. There are several palaces within its boundaries famed for their intricate carvings and courtyards such as Moti Mahal, Phool Mahal, etc. The pictures speak for themselves. The museum was fabulous too and is supposedly one of the most well-stocked museums in the state. 

Just nearby is the Jaswant Thada, a cenotaph built by Maharaja Sardar Singh in 1899 in memory of his father, Maharaja Jaswant Singh. It serves as the cremation ground for the royal family of Marwar. The mausoleum is built out of intricately carved sheets of marble which are extremely thin and polished so that they emit a warm glow when illuminated by the sun.

We kicked off Day 2 in Jodhpur with a visit to the impressive Umaid Bhawan Palace, one of the world’s largest private residences. Thereafter it was on to Sardar Market, close to the clock tower, which is one of the major landmarks of the city. The narrow lanes are adorned with shops (estimated to number around 7000!) selling all manner of handicrafts, spices, tea, etc. which made for an enjoyable excursion. The highlight though was the stepwell, Toor Ji Ka Jhalra. Built in 1740s, this historic structure was only recently excavated and restored and will leave you awestruck. No surprise then that it has made it to the list of ‘most beautiful stepwells in India’ (http://www.themysteriousindia.net/12-beautiful-stepwells-india/). We picked up a few pairs of ‘mojaris’ or embroidered, leather shoes and some spices from the market as souvenirs.

After lunch at ‘On The Rocks’ (very overpriced with poor service so stay clear!), we rested at our hotel before embarking on a Bishnoi village safari, one of the highlights of our trip. It was lovely seeing the friendly villagers go about their tasks, with one lady volunteering to be photographed with me (for a small fee😊). Driving from village to village, we were fortunate to see not only several deer in the Guda Bishnoi village, but also the rare black buck, made famous by the Salman Khan poaching case! Another highlight was catching the sunset at the Guda Bishnoi Lake where we saw several migratory birds. A visit to a local dhurrie-maker rounded up our village safari. 

Finally it was on to our final destination, Udaipur. Enroute, we visited the Ranakpur Jain Temple, made of light-colored marble. Over 1444 marble pillars, carved in exquisite detail, support the temple, with no two pillars the same.  The Eklingji temple and the remains of the Sahastra Bahu Temples (not far from Nagda) are also worth a visit. The latter are now in partial ruins, but are still indicative of their original splendour, artisanry and perfect geometry.

Of course, every key city in Rajasthan has its palaces and forts and City Palace,

Udaipur, was the last one we visited.  It was built over a period of nearly 400 years, with contributions from several rulers of the Mewar dynasty, with construction starting in 1553. Having visited the Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, this palace was no match, though admittedly way more impressive from the inside than the outside. Within the grounds, located inside the Fateh Prakash Palace, Crystal Gallery is the largest private collection of crystal in the world. It was established by Maharana Sajjan Singh who ordered the crystal collection from the Birmingham-based F&C Osler company in 1877. Unfortunately, he died before it arrived and all the crystals remain packed in the boxes for 110 years. The Crystal Gallery was opened to the public in 1994 and exhibits precious crystal items brought from various parts of the world, including a dining table, a sofa set and a crystal bed. A must-visit when in Udaipur.

One can’t leave Rajasthan without having eaten dal-bati, so after a quick stop at the vintage car museum, we headed to lunch at the nearby Krishna Dal-Bati Restro. Yummy but boy was it heavy! Definitely called for some R&R before our evening boat ride on Lake Pichola and a romantic dinner at Jhumar restaurant, overlooking Fateh Sagar Lake. After all, Udaipur is called the ‘City of Lakes’ 😊.

Apart from the amazing structures, the best part of the trip was driving through small villages, witnessing the colourful, village life and people first-hand. It was all we expected it to be and more. Our driver, Hari Ram, was amazing at getting us the best photo opportunities with locals in turbans, camels and everything one associates Rajasthan with. Experiences like drinking tea cooked on coals in Busi village and trying my hand at dhurrie-making will forever remain etched in my memory.

So it was with a tinge of sadness that we ended our maiden trip to this colourful state and we hope to return to explore other parts someday…