CROATIA and SLOVENIA Unravelled

Croatia and Slovenia have long topped our travel wish list—and my husband’s 60th birthday was the perfect excuse to finally explore them. And let me tell you—they more than lived up to the hype! The culinary scene, which you know is essential for every Mantri family holiday, exceeded expectations. But I’ll get to that soon...

We kicked off (and later wrapped up) our journey in Zagreb, Croatia’s capital. We rented a car from Nova Rent a Car, a highly recommended local company, with excellent service throughout.

Our first stop was Zadar, the second‑largest city on the Dalmatian coast—and reputedly home to one of the world’s most spectacular sunsets. Windswept and ancient, Zadar has been continuously inhabited since the 4th century. We stayed in a wonderfully located apartment—just steps from the seafront promenade. Here, the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun monuments, both by Nikola Bašić, draw large crowds at dusk. The Sea Organ turns waves into sound through marble steps and submerged pipes, while the Greeting to the Sun is a 22‑meter solar‑powered glass circle that lights up at night, creating a poetic dialogue between light, water and sky. Since time was short, we kicked off with a free walking tour (something we try everywhere in Europe). It’s the fastest way to get our bearings, hear local legends, see major highlights and soak up the atmosphere. In Zadar, our route took us through the old town’s narrow stone alleys, past the Roman Forum and the Church of St. Donatus and onto the waterfront for the Sea Organ and Greeting to the Sun.

The food was just as memorable. Our most traditional Croatian meal was at Bistro Pjat, where we tried pasticada—a rich braised beef dish in a fragrant sweet‑and‑sour sauce popular in Croatia. While interesting, we subsequently steered more toward Mediterranean seafood and simpler fare. Little indulgences deserve a mention: creamy, unforgettable ice‑creams from Bob Rocks; and the most heavenly pistachio croissants I’ve ever had at Coffee and Cake, Kavana Centar.

Our next lodging stop was Split, but on the way we made a stop at Šibenik — and what a gem that turned out to be. 

Dominating the skyline is the Cathedral of St. James, hailed as the most significant architectural achievement of the 15th‑ and 16th‑century Croatia. It’s built entirely of stone, using some fascinating structural techniques, and earned its UNESCO World Heritage status in 2000. We lingered in Šibenik long enough for a lovely meal at Ay Amo.

Once in Split, we checked into an apartment in the perfect spot — close enough to feel part of the buzz but tucked away enough to relax. That evening, we found a local bar to catch what turned out to be a thrilling Arsenal-Newcastle match, then made our way to Ćiri Biri Bela for dinner. The restaurant is charming: a romantic courtyard set in a traditional Dalmatian stone house, with a local‑seasonal menu that blends tradition with a touch of modern flair. Food, ambience, service all delivered.

The next morning, our walking tour led us into the heart of Split’s history. One of the loveliest moments was hearing a brief klapa —that warm, resonant sound of a cappella group singing — performance at the Vestibule of Diocletian’s Palace. If you time it right (especially in summer), you might catch one of the regular longer performances. Also on the must‑do list is the Green Market. There’s something magical about wandering among the stalls, breathing in the mix of aromas and buying fresh figs, local olive oil and knickknacks.

The drive down the Dalmatian coast from Split to Dubrovnik was long—but absolutely worth it thanks to two wonderful stops: Makarska and Ston. Makarska, nestled beside the sea, charmed us with its natural beauty. After a scrumptious lunch at Gastro Diva, we climbed up to the statue of St. Peter, perched on St. Peter’s Peninsula, for sweeping views of the city, islands, and rugged mountain backdrop.

Then it was onward to Ston, a highlight of our Croatian journey. After scaling the Ancient Walls of Ston, which stretch more than 5km linking Ston and Mali Ston, and sampling sea salt from the nearby salt pans for which the region is famous, we found our way to Restaurant Ficovic in Hodilje (just outside Ston). There, in a beautiful setting, with attentive service, we indulged in oysters and fresh seafood so sublime that I can honestly say it was the best meal of the entire trip!

Anand was itching to explore Dubrovnik—after all, it’s where 7 seasons of Game of Thrones were filmed. Of course, he couldn’t resist grabbing some memorabilia and snapping photos at the official store. But there was so much more to the city than that. 

After a free walking tour of the Old Town, over the next couple of days we walked the city walls (with views of the Adriatic and the red rooftops), explored the fortress while soaking up its commanding presence over the sea, visited one of the oldest working pharmacies in Europe (1317) inside the Franciscan Monastery, and paid our respects at St. Blaise Church and visited the Cathedral, both beautiful and steeped in history. 

One of the must‑do food stops is Holy Burek. The line was long but the burek absolutely delivered.

And so, after Anand departed, my husband and I pressed on to one of the most magical parts of our journey: Plitvice Lakes National Park. Without a doubt, this was the highlight of the whole trip. The photos barely capture the sheer, breathtaking beauty of cascading waterfalls, crystal‑clear streams, and those views that make you stop and admire. We lucked out with a gorgeous, sunny day, and the early touch of fall colours made everything even more special.

If you're planning a visit, here are a few tips:

• Buy your tickets in advance. The park limits visitor numbers per hour, so securing a slot ahead of time avoids disappointment.
• Arrive early in the morning. We got there well before most tour groups, which let us explore in relative peace. It’s also cooler and less crowded in those first few hours.
• Route H is highly recommended. It includes beautiful sections of both upper and lower lakes, and benefits from peaceful stretches along the way, offering the best balance of scenery, boat ride, walking and views.
  

We stayed at B&B Millenium House, which was perfectly located just a stone’s throw from Entrance 2. The owner was wonderful—warm, helpful, and gave us excellent advice on the best path (Route H) and where to eat. One recommendation he made, Restoran Gurman, turned out to be just what we needed after a long day of walking.

From Plitvice, we took a side trip to the charming village of Rastoke, only about 30‑km away. Often called the “mini Plitvice” (or “Little Plitvice”), it has its own charm: wooden watermills, small waterfalls, and rivers (the Slunjčica and the Korana) weaving through a picturesque settlement built in harmony with the water.

Finally, it was onward to Slovenia. If driving, make sure you buy an e-vignette (permit to enter Slovenia) online beforehand to cover the length of your stay before driving into Slovenia to avoid being fined.

Piran beckoned next, after a gorgeous lunch stop in Motovun in the Istria region—famous for both its white and black truffles. We dined at Konoba Mondo, and it was absolutely superb: the

ravioli came topped with generous shavings of white truffle. Motovun also turned out to be the perfect place to pick up a bottle of truffle oil to bring home. Plus, the views from the hilltop town surprised on the upside. All in all, a worthwhile detour if your schedule allows. Piran, was our home for the night. It’s a charming coastal town, with pastel‑coloured buildings, narrow winding alleys and the sea right outside your door—very reminiscent of the Tuscan towns we’ve grown to adore.

Our drive to Lake Bled was enriched by two remarkable stops that showcased Slovenia's natural and historical wonders. At the recommendation of friends, we ventured to the Škocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its exceptional limestone formations and underground river canyons. This vast system encompasses over 6km of passages, including the immense Martel Chamber, one of the largest known underground chambers globally. The Reka River carves through the cave, creating dramatic waterfalls and rapids, while collapsed dolines add to the site's geological significance. As UNESCO notes, Škocjan Caves are a testament to the grandeur of karst topography and a haven for endemic species, making it a must-visit for nature enthusiasts and geology aficionados alike.

Continuing our exploration, we arrived at Predjama Castle, a Renaissance fortress built into the mouth of a cave halfway up a 123m-high cliff. Dating back over 800 years, the castle's strategic location made it nearly impregnable. Legend has it that the knight Erazem of Predjama used a network of secret tunnels to evade capture during a prolonged siege,. Today, visitors can tour the castle and its cave system, delving into its storied past and enjoying panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

We continued our journey to Lake Bled, Slovenia’s flagship lake, nestled serenely in the Julian Alps of the Upper Carniolan region. Often hailed as the most beautiful place in Europe, its emerald waters, quaint island church and medieval castle perched atop a cliff create a scene straight out of a fairytale. The town exuded a Swiss charm, with our hotel reminiscent of the cozy chalets found in towns like Zermatt. 

A leisurely walk around the lake's perimeter, a traditional pletna boat ride to the island, and a visit to the nearby Vintgar Gorge - just 10 minutes away - were all highlights of our stay. Dining at the Old Cellar Bled added to the town’s allure, offering a delightful culinary experience.

A short drive led us to Lake Bohinj, Slovenia’s largest lake, which offers a more tranquil and less touristy experience. A visit to the Savica Waterfall, located within Triglav National Park, was a highlight. This unique waterfall, with its distinctive A-shape, cascades from a height of 78 meters and is formed by an underground watercourse splitting into two streams.

Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital, beckoned next. In 2016, it was honoured with the European Green Capital Award, recognizing its exceptional environmental initiatives and commitment to sustainability. The city boasts an impressive 542 sq.m. of green space per capita, the highest in Europe. At the heart of Ljubljana lies the Ljubljana Castle, a 16th-century fortress offering panoramic views of the city. According to Greek legend, the Argonauts, led by Jason, encountered a fearsome dragon in a marshy lake near the city. After slaying the beast, the dragon became a symbol of power and courage, now prominently featured on the castle tower, the city’s coat of arms, and the iconic Dragon Bridge. Wandering through Ljubljana's pedestrian-friendly Old Town, we were captivated by its baroque architecture, cobblestone streets, and the gentle flow of the Ljubljanica River. Cafés lining the riverbanks offered the perfect spots to relax and soak in the vibrant atmosphere. A boat ride on the only wooden boat on the river was lovely and offered views of the city from a different perspective.

Our Balkan adventure concluded back where it began—Zagreb. Once more, we embarked on a free walking tour. Zagreb's blend of Austro-Hungarian architecture, lively squares, and quaint cafés offered a perfect backdrop for our final days in Croatia. Meals at Restoran Uspinaja were a highlight. This charming eatery serves traditional Croatian dishes with a modern twist, providing a culinary experience that encapsulated the flavours of the region.

During our walking tour in Zagreb, my husband encountered the Croatian concept of fjaka—a relaxed state of mind and body, often described as the 'sweetness of doing nothing'. It's a cherished aspect of Dalmatian culture, emphasizing complete relaxation and presence in the moment. Some even believe that embracing fjaka can rejuvenate the spirit and promote well-being. As we prepared to leave, I mused about my husband's newfound appreciation for fjaka. If he fully embraces this laid-back philosophy, I might find myself sightseeing solo in the future! 😊